Son La

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hassle

The French used Son La to build a penal camp or prison here in the year 1908 with mainly political prisoners who resisted Colonialism or who had "other" thoughts. As so often, they built it on the top of the hill in the middle of the city. And also, as is often the case, in Vietnam it is a "hassle" to find a museum or a landmark because nothing is indicated and local people often have no idea what you really want while it is so obvious to us.

After a long walk up the hill, asking around to several people I finally arrive at the museum, which has been set up next to the former prison.

"Off loading"

I leave the museum for what it is and walk along the stone wall to the entrance of the French colonial prison camp Son La. What you see is largely renovation and replica but it still gives a picture of how it must have been here. American bombers often dropped their off-load during the American or Vietnam War when they were on their way back to their flying bases in Laos.

Son La was a town that was regular bombed due to this reason. Large walls are built around the square which is the centre of this rather small complex and there are parts of green bottles put in the concrete to prevent escape attempts. Then I walk through the iron gate and then a large part with ruins.

The French started with a small camp in the beginning of the 20th century to make it through the years four times as big in the 30s and 40s of that century. In total, more than 1,000 people would be serving their "punishment" here.

Son-La-Prison-Jail-Colonial-French-Watchtower-Wall-Vietnam

higher framework

The watchtower on the corner has been reconstructed but gives a good picture of ho wit would have looked like. In the back of the complex you can visit and view the large cells where the prisoners were chained to their ankles (see also the cells in Hanoi). You can read that the Revolutionaries developed support groups when they were accommodated here and "worked" on their plans.

Ironically, it became a school for communism and many became high-ranking members after the French War became part of the party for independence. You can also see the underground cells, but the light does not work here and it is pitch dark here unfortunately. Here prisoners would have been locked up after their hunger action in the 1950s.

In the other big cell there are many showcases with stuff from that time and photos. There is also a model of the entire prison here. But even here the light does not work unfortunately. After half an hour of looking around, a whole tour bus group enters the area, which is the signal for me to leave.

French war (1946-1954):

After WWII, France wanted to take control again in their "old" colony IndoChina of which Vietnam was a part. The communist Ho Chi Minh had fought in the war with his Vietminh against both the Colonizing French and the Japanese occupiers and was partly supplied by the Americans.

In 1945 during the chaos after the war, Ho proclaimed the independence of Vietnam. There was complete chaos in the country and even Ho thought it better to install first a French order so they could leave after five years. But the relationship between the French and Vietminh soon faded and already in 1946 Ho fled into the mountains with his warriors and started a guerrilla war against the French - the so-called Viet-Franco war.

karaoke

I walk back the same way and wait for a bus in the busy main route to my hostel. A drunken Vietnamese (exceptional to see this) stands in front of me and starts singing a song about Ho Chi Minh. Maybe because I look like an American, maybe because he thinks I wear army clothing (although it’s travel gear) but I really can not enjoy what he's out to do.

I have no idea how to respond and take a step backwards but the man steps forward too. Suddenly people from shops walk up the street to see who is singing to whom. Local passengers try to tell me that I shouldn’t response and that they no tapprove with this all. I would already have been happy with a local bus but now it is a gift from heaven.

tips & advice (2014)

The bus station of Son La is about 5 kilometers southeast of the city center. There are also xe buyt local buses that ask 10,000 VND for a ride of a few kilometers. For a motorcycle taxi you have to pay double.

Name: Old French Colonial Prison (museum)

Address: Nha Tu Cu Cua Phap

Price: 30,000 VND

Time: 07:30 - 11:00 and 13:30 - 17:00

Content:

This was the place where anti-Colonial Vietnamese Revolutionary troublemakers were imprisoned in the first half of the 20th century by the French. Replica watch towers have been recreated on the spot overlooking the ruins of the famous cells. Totally surrounded by high walls, this prison was about 500m2 when it was set up. In the years 30 to 40 it was extended to more than 2000m2 ready for more than 1000 prisoners.

The complex was unfortunately largely destroyed by the American bombers who often threw the cargo they had left ("off loading") of their attacks on North Vietnam. In recent years, more parts have been renovated A grim but interesting place to visit.

In the city Son La, which is very narrow strip of houses but kilometers long, there are enough places to sleep; the closer you get to the center (and the prison museum), the more pricey it becomes, it seems. On the other hand, it is not packed with guesthouses and hotels. My first option Huong Sen looked pretty pricey from the outside but was allright.

Name: Nha Nghi Xuan Mai

Address: so nha 02 duong Le Duan to 1 phuong quyet Tam

Price: 125,000 VND (single / double)

Phone nr. : 0936 - 192176/0223 855 034

Content:

This hostel is located about 100 to 200 meters diagonally opposite the bus station of Son La. There are several hostels here that seem to give and ask for almost the same thing. I had a cheap room (had to haggle from 150,000), not completely super clean but OK for one night. Spacious with two 1.5 beds, two chairs and a table and a private toilet and shower.

The window was (fortunately) not along the very busy road in the front of the building There is a slightly clean towel, some soap and a piece of toilet roll. There is also WIFI. The family is pretty friendly (do not see so many foreigners I guess) and only the daughter speaks a little English.