The rice bowl of Vietnam and also a big one of the whole world. The Mekong delta is an area in the southwest of Vietnam where the Mekong river flows into the South China Sea with a network of side branches (connected by channels). The delta was created by sedimentation and expands annually by about 80 meters. It is one of the largest delta complexes worldwide.
Every square meter of the Mekong is in use and besides rice, there is also a lot of sugar cane, fruit and coconuts grown. The area is considered rural but it is one of the most crowded areas in Vietnam. One of the population groups are the (Cambodian) Khmer who were also the first inhabitants. Now they are considered and treated as minorities by the ethnic Vietnamese. Their number fluctuates - the Vietnamese call a million while the Khmer himself keeps the number at 7 million.
Besides going to a floating market, the Mekong delta is a very suitable area for making a boat trip across the wide rivers but all the smaller channels where life takes place entirely on and around the water. You will find old bunkers used by the Vietcong, houses on poles with fishing nets underneath and very suitable home-stays are offered. You can spend a night on the water, among other things. Of course you can book a tour from Ho Chi Minh City but it is much more fun and exciting to go with a local bus and to organize your own trip here.
Rung Tram (2014):
Due to its location this is probably only a place you want to visit if you are really interested in the Vietnam War. Said that it’s also a beautiful place to boat around in a mangrove forest in a wooden boat, paddled by someone in Vietcong uniform. The journey takes about 25 minutes and costs 30,000. If this had not had any historical significance for the Vietnamese, this piece of forest would have long since been turned into a rice field.
You make a circle in a narrow boat that can hardly maneuver through the waterways between trees and bushes. It is completely overgrown and in some places there are wicker and wooden huts that are probably replicas of old Vietcong leader hide-outs. The complex was built at 2 km from an American military base.
Here only high-ranking generals gather around. There are three large open areas in the forest where some American bombs fell and you can see entrances from underground bunkers. In the dry season you can by means of a path with wooden poles taking a walk through the forest.
My Tho and Ben Tre (2002):
My Tho is the gateway to the Mekong delta (area) and the first real city that can be classified as Mekong City. Known for its market but also for the famous floating markets you really should go to Vinh Long (Cai Be) or Can To (Cai Rang).
The city was founded by Chinese refugees from Taiwan in 1680 and it is ironic that they had to leave again in the 1970s for political reasons. In addition to tourism (see "tour" below), the city lives off the fish, but also the cultivation of rice, coconuts and fruit.
The town Ben Tre is on the other side of the channel of My Tho (see tour below) and benefits as a younger brother of the success. But the town is a lot quieter, has a cozy looking promenade with old dilapidated houses and some temples. One of the special features of Ben Tre is the production (and sale) of coconut candy.
You can visit a factory where the women are cutting the syrupy goods for sale.
The Mekong delta is the last area that was annexed and populated by Vietnam. Until the 18th century it was part of the Khmer Kingdom and by some population groups it is still considered part of Cambodia which to this day call it Kampuchea Krom - the low Cambodia. Before that, the Khmer army had won several victories over the Vietnamese to lose it all again.
But the real break came when in the 19th century the French colonized the area as part of protectorate CochinChina as colonizing power. In 1949 this became official and is considered a real disaster in Cambodia - still. The most recent news is that in the archaeological city Oc-Eo which at the time was perhaps the most flourishing city of South East Asia (from the 6th to the 1st century BC) proof has been found that even the Romans trade with the Funan empire that ruled Cambodia and this part of Vietnam.
In the 1970s, the Khmer Rouge once again tried to take back the area and would carry out many attacks on cities in the delta and Vietnamese people in the border region. For example on the Sam mountain near Chau Doc you can still see an abandoned military post. Also at Ba Chuc where the Khmer Rouge killed hundreds of innocent (Vietnamese) civilians there is a monument. This slaughter was perhaps the main reason (or at least the excuse) to invade Cambodia. Only through the invasion of the Vietnamese army (and the elimination of this group) did peace return to the area.
The vast majority of the population of the Mekong delta is ethnic Vietnamese, but there are still many Khmer people living next to ethnic Chinese and a number of Chams. In 1975, the Communist regime introduced a collective market for the cultivation of rice. A disaster occurred when production ceased and Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) starved to death. People from that city came to the delta themselves to buy rice on the black market. Checkpoints were set up to check; people who had more than 10 kg of rice were arrested. In 1986 this plan was set aside and today the delta is one of the most productive rice regions in the world.
Vinh Long - Rung Tram (Xeo Quyt): there is (unfortunately) no direct bus from VL to Cao Lahn to get out at My Hiep and to go to Rung Tram. Or you have to drive completely by bus via Sadec, Cao Lanh and then My Hiep which is pricey and takes a lot of time. It is best to take a mototaxi from Vinh Long to Anthoitrving which is the intersection of Cao Lanh and HCMC.
This is about 15 km and costs are about 50,000 Dong. There is a bus stop and frequent buses go to Cao Lanh. Indicate that you want to get out at the intersection 2 km past My Hiep towards Rung Tram or Xeo Quyt. Costs are about 12,000 Dong and the distance around 20 to 25 km. After that you will have to walk the last 6 km or have to arrange a motorcycle taxi because public transport does not drive here. They do ask the main prize for tourists here. I think that 20,000 Dong is sufficient.
Rung Tram (Xeo Quyt) - HCMC: at the intersection 6 km past Rung Tram you can take a minibus that goes directly to Mien Tay (southern bus station of HCMC). Costs are 90,000 Dong and takes about 3 hours. To go from that bus station to District 1 (center) you have to go to the bus area and look for bus 102 - costs 6,000 (if they do not ask for your bag) and the time is about 1.5 hours.
Address: 2 HD Hung Vuong
Price: from 130,000 Dong (single)
Phone nr. : 383 6846
Content:
Located in a side street near the market and the (old) bus station next to a multitude of other (budget) hostels is this very nice hostel situated. A wonderful, sociable and very social family runs this place that has been around for years. There are different rooms with a variety of things. I had a single room on the third floor without window and without AC.
But you have a refrigerator, TV, two chairs and a table, a 2p bed, two clean towels, soap, toothbrush, toilet paper and a wardrobe. There is a toilet and (hot) shower and a sink. In addition, the girl speaks reasonable English, there is a good working WIFI and everything is clean and tidy. The sister of the girl offers boat tours to o.a. "Cai Be" floating market for 200 Dong p.p. (mine was suddenly full she said where I had my doubts about).
TOUR Mekong (My Tho) (undertaken in 2002)
- Time: 07:45 - 19:00
- Price: 215,000 VND (PRICE: 2014)
- Includes: (English) speaking guide, transportation (AC), boat trip, fresh fruit and lunch
Content:
Second part:
What I can still remember from this tour was that it was all very slick and really for tourists. It is a pretty long drive to the delta, where you will be taken to the first village of the delta. With other words you are just on the edge of the channel area. You pass very touristy factories where you get tea, wine and things like that (including souvenirs).
Also during lunch where you get to hear traditional music and the possibility of being able to take a photo with a big snake around your neck, it was too much for me. It is a full and multifaceted day where you can see, hear and do everything, but for me personally a visit to the delta by myself was a lot more fun.
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