Bukhara

Places of Interest - Uzbekistan

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introduction

The 2500-year-old city of Bukhara, like Samarkand, was one of the most important cities of Central Asia and an important link of the Silk Road. The city consists of two parts: the old city and a new city built around the train station. One of the highlights of the old city is the beautiful Kalyan minaret. When the city was destroyed by the Mongols, it would have been Djengiz Khan himself who was so impressed with the splendor of the tower that he ordered it to be spared. The big fort, called the Ark, is also a 'must' to see.

Located on a rock above the city you have a beautiful view from the walls. There are several dusty but fun museums in the fort. Buchara is more than admiring old buildings. The heart of the old town is formed by Lyab-i-Hauz. Around a large water reservoir are the tables of tea houses and restaurants where old trees provide the necessary shade. It is wonderful to sit here for a few hours in the company of old Uzbeks while enjoying several pots of tea.

Like Samarkand, Khiva and Shakhrisabz, Bukhara is also on the Unesco World Heritage List.

highlights

Around Haqiqat:

Firstly, there is the Po-i-Kalân complex consisting of: the Kalyan minaret or Great Minaret partly built in the 12th century, which at the time was probably the tallest building in Central Asia. If it was not because of its beauty, Djenghis Khan would have destroyed it. At the foot of the minaret is the Kalân mosque in which some 10,000 prayer worshipers can take place.

Finally there is the beautiful Mir-i Arab Madrassa which still functions as a (Koran) school. Unfortunately, tourists can not get further in the school than the foyer. If you walk around between the arching bazaars you will reach a square where once the world famous “herb”-market was held. Magok-i-Attari, built not later than the 16th century, is located almost hidden on the side, built on earlier foundations of, among other things, a zoroastrian temple.

This is probably also the most sacred place in the city. Nearby you can see the jewelers, hat makers and money exchange cupolas in the bazaar. Finally there is the Ulug Beg Madrassa (early 15th century) and opposite of that the 17th-century Abdul Azis Madrassa.

Around the Ark:

The Ark, which literally means the fort, is the oldest structure in the city of Bukhara and consists of barracks and military reinforcements. Built and occupied from the 5th century to 1920 when it was shot at by the Red Army (Sovjet Union).

The building that we can now see (it is a museum nowadays) was largely built in the 16th to the 18th century. About 80% has been bombarded to ruins, but you can still see parts of the royal rooms and there are a number of museums within. There is also a mosque and the oldest part consists of a "reception and meeting court".

In front of the fort is the large now empty Registan square where many executions took place in the past. It was here that the English (imprisoned in the prison Zindor - see museums) Conolly and Stoddart were publicly hanged.

Other attractions:

Ismail Samani mausoleum, Chor Minor (four minarets), Chasma-Ayub mausoleum and the Emir summer palace.

history

In the 9th and 10th century, Bukhara, which is still the most sacred city in Central Asia, was called the Pillar of Islam. After Djenghis Khan and Timur Lenk left the scene, the city started its second big revival. Under the Uzbek Shaybanids it became the capital and was known for its large market with specialized bazaars and "caravanserais" with exotic herbs and slaves.

In addition, there were more than 100 medresses (with 10,000 students) and about 300 mosques. When the Russians arrived, the city became a protectorate of the tsar in 1918 to win once again a big battle of the Bolsheviks. Then Bukhara was taken and became part of the newly created Uzbek SSR.

Bukhara-Gate-Mosque-Mudbrick-Minaret-Islam-Square-Uzbekistan

tips & advice (2009)

The new train station is located about 15 kilometers west of the city of Bukhara, in the city Kagan. From Lyabi Hauz in Bukhara you can come here with marshrutka 68 in 20 minutes. There are several stops where you can take a bus, marshrutka or "shared" taxi.

Bukhara - Urgench (and then to Khiva): at Karvon bazaar "shared" taxis depart/arrive to/from Urgench. To Urgench is takes about 4.5 hours and the ride costs about 30.000 Som. There should also be marshrutka's to Urgench for 12,000 (before 12 o'clock in the morning) but I have not seen them (unfortunately).

To Khiva the driver often asks about 5000 Som more.

Name: Zindon prison

Address: Behind the Ark

Price: 2000 Som

Time: 09:00 - 16:30

Phone nr. : 224 9502

Content:

It is now a museum - the prison where once the Brits Stoddart and Conolly were imprisoned. You can see a number of torture chambers and of course the dungeon where the now famous men were dumped and left to rot away.

Do not be alarmed by the dolls used to indicate how the lords have suffered in this dark space between the lice, scorpions and other insects.

You shouldn’t miss at least one evening (or afternoon) at the very romantic and cozy Lyabi Hauz square around the pond.

First take a look where you want to sit; some restaurants ask high prices. You can order a delicious shashlick for example - you can buy bread from one of the women in the square for a negligible amount and then put you’re meat on that. Only a bit of a shame about that a big ugly pipe runs right through the pond and you can see it clearly.

Name: Hotel Saffron

Address: Sarrafon street

Price: $ 11 (single)

Content:

This hostel is located in the center of the town near Lyabi-Hauz square in a very quiet old alley. Two rooms have been built above the entrance to the courtyard. The rooms are old, there is actually nothing next to a bed, but clean and great for a night to sleep and within walking distance of the sights.

It is a real family hostel but there is no common room or anything. Breakfast is included and is served at a table in the courtyard which could be decorated a bit nicer. Shower and toilet are in the hallway.

I was of the opinion that Bukhara was more "real" than Samarkand - I slept in the old part between the houses of the local people but when you walk to the "real" old part of the city you don’t see tourists anymore.