Murchison Falls National Park

Travel Stories - Uganda

introduction

This morning I arrived by bus from Fort Portal via Hoime in the village called Masindi. I try to get direct information about going to Murchison Falls national park but it’s all kinda chaotic. There seem to be numerous mini-vans to go to towns and vilages around the park but none go inside.

Of course taxi drivers and people who say they are taxi drivers try to persuide me to go along with them but ask a lot of money. I look at the map in my travel guide and of course I have a lot of attention because I seem to be all alone (well as a tourist). I decide to go as far as possible with public transport and to hitchhike the rest.

And otherwise there will be another day tomorrow – I’ve got some time on my hands. An hour later I am in the bus to Bulisa. There I get out and see a sign of the National Park so I know which way to go. A bit later a jeep of a ranger stops and I can ride along. However, I have to pay the entrance fee of the park. Doesn’t matter I’m in the park.

Nile boat trip

I think it was still a 15 km drive through the park when we stop at the river, which should be the Victoria Nile. It is an open area with lots of grass and a number of little houses. Together we walk into the building in what should be the headquarters of the rangers here. I can leave my big bag here when I book a boat trip to the waterfalls. It is not obvious that you can join the boat - you can of course take it alone but then you pay for the whole boat.

There is a big tour group and it is not a problem when I joint hem because I’m just alone and pay for just one person. While I am waiting outside on a bench, I see a large hippopotamus grazing at the water's edge. The ranger comes to me and says that I never have to stand between the water and the hippo. He seems so innocent, but this beast kills the most people in Africa. It is exactly two o'clock when I, together with the mostly elderly people, roll up the boat.

I got a good spot for on the boat and I quickly put my cap on because of the heat. It is not long before we see our first wild animals on the river side - a crocodile, numerous birds and again some hippos. Then after about an hour of boating we see the mighty waterfalls looming in the distance. We sail there but not too close unfortunately. Then we return and go back. On the way back we pass a whole herd of elephants who are drinking at the banks of the river. When I return to the ferry and the ranger house, I say goodbye to the group that is climbing into the touring bus again.

Murchison Falls National Park:

The Murchison Falls National Park is the largest national park in Uganda with about 3860 km2 size. It is situated in the northwest of Uganda and extends inland from the shore of the Albert Lake. The White Nile flows through the park from east to west and has some wild waterfalls parts and rapids.

The park is named after the waterfalls that are sometimes called the most impressive part of the 6700 km2 Nile that flows all the way to Egypt and the Mediterranean Sea. The 6 meter wide narrowing leading to the spectacular waterfall is called the most powerful natural water source worldwide.

Until the 1970s, this park was Africa’s most popular national park with a very wide and large diversity of (wild) animals. Due to big amounts of poachers and the soldiers of dictator Idi Amin in the seventies thousands - mostly larger - animals were killed. In retrospect, this was - unintentionally - a relief for nature here that was under heavy pressure. Ecology in the park therefore had time to recover and also the wildlife has largely recovered from the slaughter.

In the park are Rothschild giraffes, hippos, nile crocodiles, hundreds of elephants, buffalo, lions, various species of antelopes (including the 'Ugandan Cob'), and various species of birds.

The barracks camp

Because the (rent) shacks at the campsite that are next to the ranger house are full, unfortunately I can not stay here. Then I try my outerbest to convince these guys that I don’t have a place to stay for tonight; I try to get a place to stay in this (reception) building but that’s also impossible. One by one they walk away because they do not know what exactly to do with me.

They point to the expensive Sarova complex on the other side of the river, but of course I can never afford that hotel. Suddenly it is almost six o'clock and the men make it clear that I have to make a choice since the ferry will cross the river for the last time today. Also a lift outside the camp is no longer possible. I sprint with my big bag to the ferry and just get it. They call to me that I simply have to walk down the road towards Te'Okuto there are also possibilities for overnight stay. It starts to get dark when walking on this kinda dyke away from the river.

The few people walking on this dusty path look at me with the question what the hell are I doing here and actually I think the same. I ask myself if this was a wise decision to take. I need to hurry up because I’m kinda afraid that’s it’s getting dark and I don’t have a place for tonight. And then suddenly I see a complex on the right side of the road that looks like a barracks camp. In retrospect, it appears to have been a student center or something like it.

Rebels or soldiers

I meet what apparently is the owner or at least the keyholder and he points me to a bed in one of the wooden barracks. Nobody else is in the complex and he asks if I’m hungry. Absolutely. An hour later there is another knock on the door and I get a plate, which looks like a tin army plate, with two boiled potatoes, a baked banana and a nile perch.

I can get water from the pump at the square in the middle of the complex. The guys tell me goodnight (after I pay the 5 dollar for the food and the night) and leave me there. After a while I fall asleep and close the curtains. It is pitch dark outside.

Suddenly I hear a lot of noise outside and wake up. I hear man talking to each other and within a minute I’m standing up and walk to the window to get a better feeling ‘bout what’s going on. I try to look through the windows but it’s in the middle of the night and it’s dark outside. In this part of Africa no lights are on. Very carefully do I put the curtain aside a bit and do I see that well? I see army uniforms and soldiers with weapons in a dark world. Is Armin's army back or are they the rebels of the Celestial army that operate in this part of Uganda?

I get scared and totally when one of the men has seen me. There is a knock on my door and I get the lock from the door with my heart pounding. A young man with a big smile explains that I do not have to be afraid - we are here because of safety. He points out what apparently is the expensive lodge where I did not want to sleep and he says he watches over 40 people (tourists) at night. With my heart still in my throat I put my head back to rest and hear the men pick up their stuff and leave again.

The powerful waterfall

In the morning I get my stuff together again and am already on my way early. I walk back to the river and laugh when I see the rangers on the other side. They too are relieved to see me again (in person). Suddenly I see something floating in the river; it turns out to be a dead hippo - it has turned pink and is completely inflated and on his back with his legs in the air.

There is a jeep with Americans parked next to the headquarters and I ask carefully where they are going. It turns out that they go back to Kampala today and find it no problem when I join them although they are going to take it easy. This saves me money and a lot of time and problems getting away from here. The black driver takes me seperately for a while when I put my big bag in the back. He wants money. I wonder a bit while he indicates that they still want to see something before they make the hour-long trip back to the capital.

I agree because a second change like this I’m not getting anymore i guess. We drive around a bit before we arrive at the top of the waterfall. It is a beautiful and powerful sight to see the water spray between the rocks here. Very powerfull. With this small group and a guide I get a lot of (free) information about the park and the waterfall before we pick up our stuff and enter the jeep again. It is time to go back to Kampala.

tips & advice (2003)

The town of Masindi is the transport hub closest to the Murchisson Falls NP at about 40 km from each other. From here you can take public transportation (minibuses) to for example Bulisa or Wanseko which are located on the west side of the park.

From there you or the driver will have to pay extra for the 15 to 20 km trip to the entrance of het park or you have to hitchhike to the rangers headquarters which is located at the ferry / Nile river.