Ani and Kars

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Kars is a city that now lies in the far east of Turkey, but belonged to Armenia for many centuries. It is a few dozen kilometers from the Turkish-Armenian-Georgian three-country point. The city is like an oasis in a sea of a high plateau with empty plains and is not like other Turkish cities - it has Russian influences and could even feel like a quit modern city for some people.

Kars developed into a Russian-Turkish bone of contention in the nineteenth century and traditionally counted many nationalities among its inhabitants, including many Armenians in particular. There are no big (touristic) sights in the city of Kars - perhaps the Kars castle is one. Outside the city there is one that you can not miss as a tourist; that's the old Armenian capital "Ani" at about 50 kilometers from Kars. An idyllic, magical and little nostalgic ruin city on a plateau surrounded by valleys where many people have tried to settle. A must-see.

Ani:

The now ruin city Ani is situated on a plateau surrounded by a high valley, making it a fantastic strategically defensible city. The place must have been inhabited centuries before but it is certain that from the 5th century AD people were living here.

Flowering time of the city, now no more than a large open field with parts of ruins here and there, was in the time that it was the capital of the Armenian people. Part of the east-west line and part of the Silk Road attracted many traders, travelers and nobles. In the 13th century the Mongols put an end to the good life in the city and destroyed it.

And because they had nothing to do with city life, Ani would be abandoned afterwords. When it was hit by numerical earthquakes, it was definitely done with "Ani". During the Soviet period, the old city was located in the no man's land between Turkey and Russia, about 700 meters away from both borders. Today you can still see many ruins such as churches, a monastery, a fortress, a cathedral, a palace and a caravanserai. It’s a windy, magical, unique place to visit. 

Kars belonged to the medieval Armenian kingdom when it was taken in 1064 by the Turkish Seljuks. They built in 1152 the citadel, the symbol of the city. In 1514 Kars came under the umbrella of the Ottoman Empire. The city withstood a Persian siege in 1731 and in 1807 resist the first of a series of Russian attacks.

In 1828 followed a successful Russian attack, which however did not lead to the final annexation of the city. It did not happen either in 1855 during the Crimean War. In 1878 Kars was at last conquered during a new Russian-Turkish war and annexed by tsarist Russia for several decades. Many Muslim residents left the city, while Christian Armenians, Greeks and Russians came in. During the Caucasus campaign, which was part of the First World War, Kars was again a Russian-Turkish dispute.

The Turks were able to occupy the city at the beginning of 1918 (because the Russians retreated due to the Revolution in their country). The treaty of the Peace of Brest-Litovsk gave the city back to the Ottoman Empire on 3 March 1918. At the end of 1918, Kars became the capital of the Turkish-minded Southwestern Caucasian Republic, but thanks to British intervention, the city came to belong to the Democratic Republic of Armenia in mid-1919, which had emerged from Tsarist Russia a year earlier. During the Turkish-Armenian War (September-December 1920) Kars was taken by the Turks on 30 October.

Most Armenian inhabitants fled. The treaties of Alexandropol (Gyumri) and Kars marked the city at the end of 1920 resp. end of 1921 to the Ottoman Empire, which soon became the Republic of Turkey.

The bus station (otogar) of Kars is located about 2 km east of the center. There are plenty of minibuses (dolmuses) between going back and forth from the centre to the otogar.

Kars - Ani: since there is no public transportation to Ani you have to take a taxi. They ask (if the drivers realize that you are desperate and/or have a lack of time) ridiculous prices. Watch that they talk about the right currency and of course it is a return (pay only when you are back in Kars) - also talk about the waiting time. I paid 50 Lira for a return with 2 hours of waiting time.

Kars - Erzurum: there are a number of minibuses a day from Kars to Erzurum - the trip takes about 3.5 hours and costs 28 Lira.

• Name: Hotel Yilmaz

Address: Kucuk Kazim Bey Caddesi 146

Price: 20 Lira (including shower and toilet)

Phone nr. : 212 5174

Content:

It is far from a perfect hostel - it is stale, corny and a bit depressed. But my room had large windows, lots of blankets (it can get pretty cold) and the staff very friendly. Downstairs is a kind of "sitting room" with large leather couches and there is a bar that serves as a reception.

The shower and toilet are inclusive in the room and are not super but satisfying enough. It is near the minibus terminal in a quiet neighborhood.

In itself Kars is not such a very interesting city for tourists, but if you want to have a bit of the Kars feeling then step into a small local dark tea house. Often it’s full of sigaret smoke so put on you’re old clothes.

In a second you’ve got contact with the locals who are very interested in "foreigners" who do not come here often. Order a tea and wait for "contact" and have a great afternoon although you don’t understand each other.