Amasya

Travel Stories - Turkey

introduction

After another night in the bus (what happens for me a bit too often but I have to, to save money and time) I arrive early (around seven) in the city Amasya in the central part of the north of Turkey . I decide to walk 2 to 3 kilometers from the bus station to the center and check into a hostel. I walk through a bit of a conservative town with a nice cozy center where no tourist or Westerner is to be seen.

Amasya has a very rich history; after its founding, the city quickly became a Hittite stronghold. After it was conquered by Alexander the Great, it became part of King Pontus's kingdom when it experienced its great heyday. In the year 47 BC. the Romans arrived, then the Byzantines, the Seljuks and the Mongols. During the time of the Ottoman Empire, the city became an important center from which military campaigns were conducted against the Persians. Numerous medresas (Islamic schools) were also built here.

The legacy of the Ottomans is still visible everywhere - on the banks of the river Yesilirmak that flows right through the old center are still plenty of half-timbered Ottoman houses. Most of them hang halfway across the river and are supported by large beams that adhere to the steep walls of the river. After my checking in I go for a long walk through the center, get a delicious doner kebab sandwich at one of the eateries in the main street and buy a bus ticket to Istanbul for tomorrow night.

Ottoman glory

My travel companion has arrived the next morning early and we decide to discover the city once more. We start with the immense statue of Ataturk - the founder of modern Turkey, whose statues you see throughout the country. After Istanbul was occupied by the Allies after WWI, the then still Mustafa Kemal fighting army officer fled to the quiet Amasya.

Here he secretly met many friends and on 12 June 1919 he would put together a manifesto with the basic principles for a struggle for independence. Reading this, I realize that yesterday I also saw a large statue with the image of a number of gentlemen - that is what this meeting must represent. Just like yesterday, we take a look at the beautiful old Ottoman houses on the riverside that almost drop into the water. We walk past the big Sultan Beyazit II Cami mosque and decide to visit the city museum.

Our joint Turkish traveler "Eniz" joins us and we decide to spend the day with the three of us. He knows this city and takes over the guiding from me. On the bridge where we have a beautiful view of the tombs carved into the rocks of the hills our new guide tells us about these Royal tombs. The first would be from the 4th century BC. and are made for the Kings of a former empire. There are 20 or something like "Eniz" though he does not know that for sure. There also seems to be an old harem cut out as well as a kind of fort or citadel but there is little to see. Just below the graves we see a row of white houses with orange roofs - a magnificent sight.

Hazeranlar Konagi

On the north side of the river we first see a kind of bell tower - one of the Islamic schools is told to us. Then we walk through the narrow streets and enjoy this old atmospheric neighborhood with half-timbered houses where you imagine yourself back in Ottoman times. At the Hazeranlar Konagi we go inside; it is a museum of an old Ottoman house built in 1865 and then renovated but left in the old style.

We see a living room with washing dolls dressed in Ottoman clothing sitting on a large couch overloaded with rugs. Also many colored rugs on the floor and beautiful red curtains in front of the window. A golden kettle on a small table with a cloth over it and many pillows on the floor. We go outside and people and in the meantime it became hot. It became crowded, people put little tables and chairs outside.

Many are looking at us, as tourist, not used to see appearantly. Before we drink a beer on the terrace, we are still standing by the statue of "the world's first historian" - a golden statue with a golden globe. I only go to the bus station and at 9 o'clock in the evening I'm in a night bus again - the last time this trip and I'm not sorry. On my way to Istanbul.

tips & advice (2004)

The bus station is at least 2 km outside the historic center on the northeast side. Because the city is close to the busy west-east main road between Istanbul and Samsun, many buses pass by.

Amasya - Istanbul: no fewer than 12 buses go to Istanbul every day. The journey takes about 10 hours.

Name: Yaliboyu

Address: Ziya Pasa Bulvari 19

Price: 11 mln (single)

Phone nr. : 218 7029

Content:

Perfectly located in the center of the cozy and atmospheric Amasya is this excellent hostel. The rooms are quite big although a bit old-fashioned. You have a view (with a bit of luck) about the tombs on the other side of the river and the river itself as well as the center with its old Ottoman houses.

The shower and the toilet in the corridor even though they seem to have rooms included. On the roof is a restaurant with even better views.