Sukothai

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The Kingdom of Sukhothai was a kingdom in north-central Thailand and existed between the years 1238 to 1438. From the then capital Sukhothai, twelve kilometers west of the current Sukhothai in Tambon Muang Kao, only ruins remain in a historical park which is currently on the UNESCO list.

The Kingdom saw as the first of present-day Thailand was the golden age for Thai architecture, culture and art. The new Sukothai is a good base to visit the 45 km2 of the historic park and besides good roads to all parts of Thailand also fine restaurants and hostels.

The city of Sukhothai was initially part of the great Khmer empire, but in 1238 the Thai warlords Pho Khun Pha Muang and Pho Khun Bang Klang Hao declared themselves independent. They established a Thai-ruled kingdom. Pho Khun Bang Klang Hao later became the first king of Sukhothai and called himself Pho Khun Si Indrathit (or Intradit). This event is usually seen as the foundation of the modern Thai nation, although around the same time other Thai kingdoms were founded, such as Lanna, Phayao and Chiang Saen.

Sukhothai grew by forming alliances with other Thai kingdoms. With the help of Ceylonese monks, Theravada Buddhism was introduced as a state religion. Under Ramkhamhaeng the Great, as he is now known, Sukhothai enjoyed a golden age of prosperity. At the height of his power, his empire extends from Martaban (now in Burma) to Luang Prabang (now in Laos) and to Nakhon Si Thammarat in southern Malacca. The sphere of influence of this kingdom was greater than that of modern Thailand, although the outer areas were not all equally controlled. Ramkhamhaeng is traditionally also regarded as the designer of the Thai alphabet. 

After his death in 1317 Ramkhamhaeng was succeeded by his son Loethai, after which the vassal states began to separate themselves from the Kingdom. First Uttaradit in the north, then soon after the Laotian kingdoms of Luang Prabang and Vientiane. In 1319 the Mon-state separated in the west, and in 1321 Tak, one of the oldest cities of the Kingdom of Sukhothai, came under the control of Lanna. In the south, the strong city of Suphanburi separated itself from Sukhothai at the beginning of the reign of Loethai.

Thus, this kingdom was very quickly thrown back to the status of before, when it was only of local importance. In the meantime the power of Ayutthaya grew, so King Thammaracha II in 1378 had to transfer power to this new power. After the death of King Thammaracha IV in 1438, Sukhothai was still only a province of Ayutthaya. The empire had existed for a total of 200 years and produced 9 kings. Due to colonial threat, a railway was quickly built at the end of the 19th century to the north of the country to integrate it with the south.

The bus station of Sukothai is about 1 to 2 kilometers from the center and the hostels. Although you can walk it is a busy, not pleasant road (the first part for sure) to where you want to be and you can easily take a songthiaw for 15 Baht.

Sukothai center - Sukothai historical park: you can easily travel the 12 km with a rented bike but you can also take the bus or songthiaw. These stop on the main road where the small street of the hostel below ends on the main road. Costs are about 15 to 20 BAht and the journey does not take longer than half an hour.

Sukothai - Nan: frequent buses to Nan go from the main bus station. There are different types of buses and I think I had the cheapest for 140 Baht. Duration is about 4 hours.

If you want to eat a delicious meal (or chocolate) you have to walk to the new Poo restaurant in the center of the city. Run by a Belgian-Thai couple, this is a very clean and tasty restaurant where they also rent motorcycles and organize other tours.

• Name: Hostel TR guesthouse

Address: 27/5 Th Prawet Nakhon

Price: 250 Baht (single)

Phone nr. : 05561 1663

Email: tr_guesthouse@thaimail.com

Content:

In a street full of hostels this is a nice, cozy building with different rooms. It has a cozy kinda terrace where you can meet other tourists and it is located just off the big busy main road. My room had its own toilet and shower (excluding breakfast), a double bed with a mosquito net. It is super clean and a great place to stay for a few nights.

You do not have to go with a tour to the Historical Park. It is very easy to reach by yourself (with songthiaw or bus) and there you can buy a ticket and walk around with your travel guide. Of course you can also take a local guide who can tell you more about detailed things and ruins. The ruins are quite far apart (except for the center) so maybe it's nice and wise to rent a bicycle in Sukothai. You must first go for the 12 kilometers of course. Some of the most impressive temples and ruins are outside the center.

The park is divided into 5 zones: each zone costs 30 Baht entrance, except for the central part which costs 40 Baht. You can also buy a combination ticket of 150 Baht. With this you can also visit the various museums for free. This ticket is valid for 30 days and you can come back as often as you wish (within 30 days).