Cerkno

Places of Interest - Slovenia

HOME (English) / Slovenia / Slovenia sights

introduction

Cerkno is a small, meaningless village in the Cerknica river valley with two important historical sights. One is the recovery of the oldest instrument in the world - the “flute” found in one of the caves near the village is between 45,000 and 80,000 years old.

The other one is built much later. About 5 km northwest lies the secret partisan hospital Franja. Despite several attempts by the Nazis to find the hospital, this never succeeded - a visit will show what the reason is.

highlights

Franja partisan hospital:

The partisan hospital of Franja, hidden near the village of Dolnica Novaki is a national monument for humanity, inspiration, sacrifice and guts during WWII. It was run by the Slovenian partisans from December 1943 until the end of the war as part of a widespread resistance movement against the Nazi occupiers and its allies.

The construction was realized by partisan fighters as local people and contained at its maximum some fourteen barracks and several outbuildings, some of which were built above the stream of water. Already during the war the hospital was named after the Partisan physician "Franja Bojc Bidovec" who also had the longest leading part of the complex.

Striking was the fact that, in addition to help the wounded partisans and allies, Italian and Austrian soldiers were also cared for. A total of 578 seriously injured patients were treated in this area and also 300 men who were less injured in the external departments. There were of course several barracks for the wounded but also an x-ray unit, an operation bunker, an insulation hut, a kitchen and a laundry room.

In the beginning and at the end of the valley (gorge) several watchtower bunkers were built, almost inconspicuous between the rocks. Despite various attempts by the Nazis to find the hospital, it remained unnoticed.

Cerkno-Franja-Hospital-Partisan-Secret-WW2-Barrack-Slovenia-Operation-Table-Chirurgie

history

The complex of Franja was built in December 1943 in the difficult rough terrain of the remote Pasica valley in West Slovenia. The Slovenian partisans built it as a hidden hospital-site and it was extended and improved until May 1945. Strikingly, the hospital is close to the Austrian border and in the middle of Nazi German occupied territory and that reason was often there and a lot of German military activity in the area.

The entrance to the hospital was hidden in the forest and the hospital could only be reached by bridges and along narrow paths along a deep ravine. These bridges could be removed if the enemy came close. To ensure safety and keep the hospital secret, patients who were transported to and from the hospital were blindfolded. In addition, minefields had been layed out around the site and machine gun nests had been built that were constantly manned. Because of the narrow gorge in which the hospital was built and covered by trees and camouflaged buildings, it was unrecognizable from the air.

The founder and first builder of the hospital was Viktor Volcjak but the hospital was named after the director who had run the hospital for the longest time - Franja Bojc Bidovec who started working there from February 1944. Extremely well filled because of the clandestine work, the hospital remained hospitalized until the end of the war. It was possible to care for a maximum of 120 patients, but often 10 times more people who needed care stayed here.

Most patients were anti-nazi resistance fighters who could not be helped in regular hospitals, as they would then be arrested immediately. Many nationalities would be treated here, including even a German wounded, who remained at the complex after his care and worked as a staff member. The hospital operated until the last day of the war - 5 May 1945 - in 1963 it was opened as a museum. In 2007 it was plagued by a flood and was badly damaged by heavy rain and flooding. The entire camp has been renovated since then, again open to the public and the only original barrack is number 9.

tips & advice (2013)

I was fortunate enough to have been brought to the threshold of the Franja hospital and back from the very remote hospital (and Cerkno not on the main route) to the main road. This because there’s no of very litlte public transport available here.

Next to the museum is a small bar/restaurant (bar Pasice) where you can buy a snack (fries, sausage) or drink a glass - coffee, wine or beer. It is open until 24:00.

Cerkno-Franja-Hospital-Partisan-Secret-WW2-Barrack-Slovenia-River

Name: wild camping spot Franja

Content:

On the route to the museum is a great place to camp for a night - first ask the people from the bar (see above) if it is possible and allowed. It is just a little further than the crossing in the road past the restaurant. And do not stand too close to the museum because there are "motion" cameras present.

You can stand right under the tree - also talk to the boy who works at the museum. I myself set up the tent when the twilight set in - then back to the restaurant - eating and drinking (wine = 1.60) and in the toilet (there are also sinks) you can brush your teeth and freshen up. In the morning you can make your own coffee on the terrace.

A magical place that is not (completely) original, but is something special. Located in a gorge that you do not really think possible, the houses are often built above the flowing stream - a miracle. A place like no other.

Name: Cerkljanski muzej

Address: Bevkova 12

Price: 4 euros

Time: 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. (6 p.m.) - during the winter, please call first for an appointment

Website: www.muzej-idrija-cerkno.si