Bovec

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The small town Bovec is the capital of the Soca valley and is located in the centre of the Julius Alps and is visited by many tourists - in summer and winter. With many hiking- and biking trails (including to Triglav national park) through the valley but also in the mountains you won’t be bored. Bovec is also the center for kayak trips, canyoping and rafting on the wild azure Soca river.

For years the region was ruled by the Habsburgs by small and short interruptions by Turkish attacks in the 15th century. Napoleon invaded from here (see Napoleon bridge) twice Austria in 1797 and 1809. Finally, the Bovec valley was under attack for months during WWI - on the so-called Isonzo or Soca front.

Many remains of the battle can still be visited and seen until today. The city Bovec was shot to ruin and has been completely rebuilt. Numerous restaurants, cafés and hotels can be found in the center.

During the Bronze- and Iron Age the region around Bovec was already inhabited. At the reinforcement Ravelnik (see “highlights” above) a number of utensils were found. In Roman times the Bovec valley was part of the province Venetia et Histria. In the city itself you can still see a partially preserved Roman road that leads from Aquilea to Tarvisio (Italy).

The Kluze fortress (see above) was built in the 15th century (1472) probably as a defense of Friuli against the Turks in the course of the next century under Austrian rule as a result of the wars between Venice and the Habsburgs. In 1796 Napoleon's army passes through the valley and there was fighting around the fortress Kluze.

During WWI, the entire region (between Karst and mountain Rombon) is largely razed to the ground - the area is located exactly on the border between the former double monarchy (Hungary and Austria) and Italy that began ten months after the actual war started. The Italians changed sides and decided to fight with the Allies. 

In 1918 Italy occupied Western Slovenia and from 1922 Fascisme de la Frontiera came to flourish, an economic, political and cultural repression. After the collapse of Italy in 1943, the Germans occupied the valley. In May 1945 it was liberated by Slovenian partisans, soon followed by British allies. From 1945 to 1947, Bovec forms part of zone B (see also Trieste in Italy). From 1947, when the Free Zone Trieste is established, Bovec became part of Slovenia, in the period up to 1991 also as part of Yugoslavia.

Bovec - Kranjska Gora: there seem to be about 4 to 5 buses daily, but strangely enough I didn’t see one bus actually leaving. I hitchhiked again and went via Tarvisio.

Locals reminded me that the other route (via Vrsic) takes much longer due to the rough terrain, besides the fact that only tourists drive there (and no locals).

Next to the campsite Polovnik (see accomodation) is a nice and cozy restaurant-café. It is not the cheapest I have seen in Slovenia but I had my best meal here - Zlikrofi (11 euros). Watch out because there is a tax of 10% on the price.

• Name: Camping Kamp Polovnik

Address: Ledina 8

Price: 7 euro + 1 euro + 0.50 = 8.50 euro

Phone nr. : +386 (0) 5 3896007

Website: www.kamp-polovnik.com

Content:

This is the nearest campsite of Bovec located on a fairly busy road. There is a fenced area and an open area with only tents. Within the fence-area, what I can remember is only caravans and some "fixed" houses. The disadvantage here is that the reception is only present at certain hours and there is actually no public area to sit as a camper.

There are no trash cans on the big field, benches, there is no lighting and you have to watch out for your stuff here if you are absent all day. The restaurant café brings solace but is not part of the campsite. From the center it is about 500 meters walking distance. On the corner of the street (direction "Kluze" for example) is also a café with terrace but also a handy supermarket.

You have to pay 0.50 for the shower and the hot water period does not take long.

All villages here in the Alps look a bit like each other (which is not so strange) - many motorcyclists and cyclists and a lot of tourism come here to enjoy. There are many campsites and accommodation options. The area is a bit like Austria and northern Italy, which is not surprising because of the close proximity. If you are interested in WWI, you can get a leaflet at one of the many information agencies (TIC).

The trail is called Walk of Peace and runs from the Alps to the Adriatic Sea.