Volgograd

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Volgograd is a Russian city on the western bank of the Volga River and is the second longest city in Europe with a length of about 100 km. Perhaps known from the first lock of the important Don-Volga canal, but best known from the (in)famous Battle of Stalingrad that marked a turning point in WWII.

Due to the battle that completely destroyed the city, there are very few old buildings left in the center but some remains of the battle. Museums, monuments and memorials can be found everywhere in the city, but a beautiful cruise on the wide primal river the Volga is also possible.

In Volgograd you can visit the ex-headquarters of the German Field Marshal Paulus and visit the Mamaev Kurgau burial mound where four months have been continuously fought between the Nazis and the Red Army in 1942 en 1943.

The current city Volgograd was founded in the year 1598 and was then named Tsaritsyn. Originally it was a fortification with a big fortress on the Volga that served as a southern defensive post for Muscovia, the empire that preceded Russia. During the Russian Civil War that raged between 1918 and 1920 in Russia, Stalin played a leading role in the fighting around this city.

That is why the city was named after him in 1925. It was a red stronghold in conflict with the whites in the civil war. Wolgograd became world famous under the name Stalingrad because of the decisive major battle (Battle of Stalingrad) that was fought there in the Second World War. The Battle of Stalingrad was one of the bloodiest battles of the Second World War and also one of the most symbolic.

It meant a turning point in the course of the war, where from then on the Germans were no longer winning, but on the losing hand. The battle began at 23 August 1942 and ended on 2 February 1943 when the German Field Marshal Friedrich Paulus surrendered with his 6th Army. Stalingrad received in 1945 the honorary title Hero City of the Soviet Union. 

Stalingrad became Volgograd in 1961 during the period of liberalization and destalinization under former president Khrushchev. This change of name met a lot of resistance from the Russian population, who considered the name Stalingrad from the Great Patriotic War to be more important than all bad associations with the person of Stalin. Under the reign of Konstantin Chernenko (1984-1985) the name was almost changed back to Stalingrad, but it never came that far.

The enormous monument called Mother Motherland was built on the Mamayev Kurgan (a burial mound) and is now by far the most appealing and impressive monument to be seen in the city. At the end of 2013, a few weeks before the Olympics in Sochi, Volgograd was brutally resurrected by a number of bombings claimed by Chechen rebels. Dozens of people were killed and many injured.

Volgograd has a 12-line tramnetwork, a 17-mile metro metro network, an airport, a port and a station. The train- and busstation are centrally located not far from each other in the center of the city. An information desk is even located in the train station.

Volgograd - Elista: because there are no direct trains between Volgograd and Elista it’s better you travel by bus. At least 7 to 10 buses run between the two cities every day. The journey takes about 6 hours and costs 500 rubles. Times include 6:30, 7:20, 7:55, 10:30 and 12:15.

• Name: diorama museum Defense of Stalingrad

Address: Gvardeyskoy Divizii

Price: 150 rubles

Time: 10:00 - 17:00 (closed on Mondays)

Content:

This museum is almost built against (at) the Volga on a dam or elevation and is surrounded by the old (flower) mill and the open air exhibition and is the highlight of those interested in the Battle of Stalingrad of the winter 1942-1943. There are large rooms with numerous showcases full of utensils, documents, war material, photographs and maps from the time of WWII.

Highlights are the original table of the German Field Marshal Friedrich Paulus when he was interrogated by the Russians after his capture. The bright green lamp is still there too. In addition, the sniper rifle of "Vasilev" is on display. You can take a look at the impressive victory hall or at the four dioramas in the museum. Above is the 360 degree diorama of the battle on Mamaev Kurgan hill.

My travel guide talks about the fact that you can only go up with a guide (or tour) and pay 650 R for it. I did not pay anything and just walked upstairs.

At the train station there are a number of stalls (situated in barracks) where you can sit and eat for little money in a friendly atmosphere. There are two next to each other on the station square itself and one is on the other side of the road. "Borsch" but also "bliny" are available.

Behind the market in the other part of Stalingrad (where my hostel is located and the monument of Sasja stands) are also a number of stalls with terraces.

• Name: Hostel Friends (Druzya)

Address: Prafsouznaya 17/1

Price: 450 rubles (dormitory)

Content:

You have to walk a bit from the center but then you find this nice hostel on the "other" side of the valley near the express tram that goes to the center. Plenty of shops and other things to keep you busy here. The hostel is accessible via a somewhat strange courtyard with garbage, a park and a playground. Inside you can choose between the hotel and the hostel. The hostel is of course cheaper but also a lot older.

There is a small kitchen that you can use and this room also functions as a sitting and TV room (is actually too small for both functions); the owner and her (grand) son also walk around here. There is WIFI (free) and possibilities to do your laundry. The room itself is clean, but quite old and the beds make a terrible peeping noise.

The woman speaks a bit German but no English but is pretty helpful There are two toilet-shower combinations, also quite old and reasonably clean and two sinks in the hallway. It is all a bit small and creaky but nice and I think the only budget option in the city.