Leud, Sapanta, Sighet Maramitei, Barsana

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The province of Maramures in the northwest of Romania is an area where life seems to have stand still for hundreds of years. Wooden houses, gates, churches (many on the UNESCO World Heritage list) and antique wooden fences, horse and carriage and almost no public transport.

Women who look their best in their traditional dress on Sunday with cotton and ironed blouses dressed with headscarf and the men with a beautiful black bowler hat. If you want to get a good and complete picture of the region, seeing the highlights below can give you a grip.

The village Leud is one of the most traditional villages in the province and has two beautiful old wooden churches while in Barsana you can visit a large monastery. One of the most gruesome prisons of the communist regime was in Sighet Maramitei and is nowadays a museum. Finally, in the town of Sapanta you can visit a very remarkable cemetery - one of which you will be cheerful.

Dacian 'tribes lived in the area that we now call Maramures as early as the year 1000 BC and today the inhabitants of this region want to believe that they are direct descendants. Even the powerful Romans who conquered most of present-day Romania were unable to take these villages behind the high Carpathian mountains into their territory.

From the 13th century, the region was ruled by the Hungarians who suffered from Tartar raids until the late 17th century. In those times hundreds of (wooden) churches were built to reinforce the defence and these are now largely on the UNESCO World Heritage List. In the middle of the 16th century, "Maramures" was annexed to the province Transylvania and fell under the Habsburg double monarchy until 1918 when most of the area officially belonged to Romania. The rest of the region belonged to the Ukraine.

During WWII (1941-1944) Maramures together with North Transylvania and a part of Moldavia was again assigned to Hungary which co-operated with Nazi Germany, during which time the almost entire Jewish population was sent to German extermination camps such as Auschwitz. Ceasescu left the area (which still has many Hungarian characteristics) undisturbed – while in other Hungarian ex areas he wanted to change the whole way of life there. 

The province Maramures is not known for its extensive road network and its exemplary, frequent public transport. On the contrary - much use is still being made of horse and carriage and hitchhiking is not a challenge here but a must.

From Leud to Sighetu Maramitei: the owner of the guesthouse brought me the first 3 km by car - to the intersection

in Bogdon Voda. From there I went first to Barsana (the second car already stopped). From the monastery grounds I could go to Sighet with a man of age in return for payment of 5 Lei. The hospital is the place for a lift to Sapanta and there too I did not have to wait long. Back to Sighetu was even easier.

From Sighetu Maramitei to Baia Mare: there seems to be a bus (once a day) at 07:00 but it is much easier, more efficient, faster, more fun and cheaper to hitchhike. You do not have to hold your thumb because you are not alone here. Walk to the second roundabout in the direction of Baia and pass between the waiting rooms. After about 10 to 15 minutes you will be asked where you want to go and then you can get into a kind of "shared taxi". Do not pay more than 15 Lei.

• Name: Sighet prison (Memorial to the Victims of Communism and Resistance)

Address: Str. Corneliu Coposu 4

Price: 6 Lei (for pictures you seem to have to pay 4 Lei extra - but nobody has said or asked anything

Phone nr. : 0262 319424

Time: 09:30 - 18:30 (16:00) - Monday to Sunday

Website: www.memorialsighet.ro

Content:

If you want to understand something of the history of Romania (and why the people in Romania are the way they are and act the way they do), a visit to this museum is a "must". If you did not live under the Communist yoke it’s even more working as an eye-opener. This museum is located in the old building of justice which in Communism times was used as a re-education prison for the most dangerous opponents of the regime - the intellectuals.

In the actual cells on three floors is explained (by means of hundreds of photos, attributes, clothing and information panels) how this was done. There is also reflection on life in the camps elsewhere in the country, collectivisation of the Romanian countryside and the overwhelming feeling of a monarchy in a dictatorial communist regime with a very aggressive security device.

Anyone who had any other ideas was picked up and sent away or put in a prison. Many thousands would not make it. A "memorial building" and a monument have been placed in the garden of the prison. The thousands of victims are mentioned on the walls leading to the "bunker".

Pizzeria Krisz in Sighet is a perfect place to have a bite - perfect service, cheap beer and a perfect pizza. Near the hostel (see below) is restaurant Maria - it is almost empty inside but the food is cheap and good. That also applies to the popular eatery (and hotel) Casa Veche - here a very extensive menu, it is almost chic; a large terrace and always busy.

• Name: guest house Ciucla (Leud)

Address: main street in Leud next to the old (wooden church)

Price: 80 Lei (including toilet and shower) and including dinner and breakfast

Content:

This nice guesthouse has been put down a bit of the street next to the old wooden church. The disadvantage is that in the morning at seven o'clock you are awake from the bells - the advantage is that you sleep in the middle of the community (next to the cemetery) and that you do not need an alarm clock and have the whole day ahead of you.

The owner speaks fluent German, French and a little English and is overzealous to his guests to make it a good stay. There are a number of new wooden chalets in the garden with a private shower and toilet that work well. Everything is there - towel, soap, toilet paper and in the house there is a double bed, a table and a wardrobe. There are different buildings for different numbers of people.

A wooden terrace has been built with beautiful flowers with two large beer tables where breakfast and dinner is served. The food is more than good - traditional, qualitatively fresh and more than enough. There is "free" schnapps donated and the man is always in for a chat. There is WIFI available.

• Name: hostel Cobwobs (Sighetu Maramitei)

Address: Str. 22 Decembrie 1989

Price: 40 Lei (dormitory 8 people)

Phone nr. : 0745 615173

Website: www.cobwobs.com

Content:

Fantastic location in the center of the city but in a very quiet spot. The owners (English and Romanian) speak fluent English and live in the adjacent building (with private entrance). There are sufficient showers (which give real hot water) and toilets, it is clean and the service is perfect. In addition there is good working WIFI and there is a garden where you can easily sink into the rocking chair an afternoon.

When I was there (in the middle of the summer) I was the only one and had an entire floor for myself. In addition, the city is a perfect starting point to visit several places in the region - lifts are very easy.