Plock and Chelmno

We decide to walk from the motel to the center in the morning - it is beautiful weather. On the square Narutowicza we stop at the guardhouse where in 1919 an uprising broke out after Russian troops occupied the city. There are two flags and there would be an eternal flame that has just been extinguished.

After showing our respect we walk further through the park and arrive at the cathedral and the only remaining city tower of the castle that the city is rich. Unfortunately, these is under construction. It turns out to be a public holiday because there is a regiment of soldiers in front of the cathedral. The uniforms are all Polish but from different era’s.

For example, we see soldiers from the war from the beginning of the 19th century (Napoleon), WWI and WWII. We take a look at the beautiful cathedral that is completely decorated with colored frescoes. A little later the soldiers enter and arrive in aisle of the cathedral. We follow the mess and then walk through the park to the edge of the cliff that gives us a view of the Wisla (Weichsel) river. There is a sailing race going on and we see the old-fashioned bridge over the wide river and the modern pier including the restaurant.

Perhaps there were houses on the river before the wars, now there is little to do. Before we go back, we take a look at the market square with its heavily renovated with colorful merchant houses and nice town hall.

The next day we take the train from Plock to Kutno Just before we enter the station of this Polish city we see a large railway complex and I remember that the city was a very important city in the fight against the Nazis in 1939. It was to my knowledge the biggest battle that the Poles fought against the Germans at the beginning of the war. From here we take a train towards Poznan which stops in the small town of Kolo where we get of.

After some shopping we found out that there is no bus going to our final destination today. Instead we decide to eat first lunch and then try to catch a lift. I prepare a sign board while we are told how to walk to the end of the town for a good hitchike spot. A girl stops and tells that there are two museums; one in the forest and the other in the city. After 9 kilometers we pass the one in the forest and 4 km later she stops at the museum in Chelmno itself. We thank her and wave goodbye.  

There is a shack which must be the entrance of the famous extermination camp where once the Holocaust would have started by gasification. We do not have to pay an entrance fee; a donation is welcome. By means of a large overview map the man tries to explain in half broken English, German and Polish where the most important objects were in the war on the site. Just with the two of us we go outside and thank him for his explanation. We first walk off the grounds and take a look at the church that served as storage during the war but also in here people were kept temporarily detained. Opposite is the old house of the commander.

Next to the church is a small valley where barracks once stood where Jews and other prisoners would have worked. Now there are two stone chapels as a memorial. We also try to spot the river Narem from the ledge (where the palace stood) but we only see the big highway between Warchau and Posen. Back at the junction, we look up the deserted land where the canteen and houses of the German guards once stood. There is still a greyish building standing up.

There are a few signs with information on the premises but actually there is little left to see and wonder about. There is a new building in the scaffolding and the other will probably serve as a museum information building for the staff. This is also closed. There are two stones as a monument and we see a wooden construction with information panels about the Lodz ghetto. The only original thing left is probably the foundation of the palace. Half an hour later we return to the forest camp.

Chelmno (Kulmhof) extermination camp: 

It is only a short hitchhike-ride to what they also called Kulmhof II but it is a special ride knowing that this is the road thousands of victims behind in a truck have made on their way to their end. They were killed by the fumes of the car that was let out in the compartment in the back instead of outside. There is a piece of original fencing left, an information panel and there stands a white house that is closed.

There are a few cars parked and we walk towards the large stone monument. Then we walk over a fake wooden bridge and see our first large mass grave. It is surrounded with stones to indicate the size. We will follow a large area with countless monuments. Also here many pieces of land with stones which marks the amoun ot mass graves here at he camp.

At the back in the camp is a concrete wall with a gate and we wonder if at one time the crematoria has stood here. It’s such a pity so less information is given to us here. We decide to walk into the forest and set up our tents. We will sleep on holy ground and we realize that only too well.