Isla de Ometepe

Travel Stories - Nicaragua

the harbor

Just before the fence and gate of the port we stop, pay the driver and walk up a concrete pier with a large fence on one side. We pay a tax of 10 C $ to go through the gate and see through the fence a wide beach with dozens of small beach bars with hundreds of people. Probably a party because of the holy week. The wind blows like crazy and we just miss the small boat that seems to be full.

We see him throwing the bunches before getting stuck in the turbulent open waters. The waves crash on the shabby wooden boat and we hear him crack. People scream when the water picks up the puny boat and throws it down again. Maybe a good idea to go with the more expensive but also bigger and therefore heavier ferry. For the driveway for this boat there are about 30 cars waiting with a few hundred people. When we ask what time the ferry leaves (or arrives) the people call in unison: 10:30. Looking at our watch that is about an hour ago and it is apparently meant to be sarcastic.

Just as we want to put our names on a pick-up list for the ferry, a small boat arrives and the ferry is not yet in sight. We decide to take the little one and find a place in the hold behind a jute separation. That at least stops the wind a bit. We see the ferry arriving that is immediately filling up. Just before our boat leaves, a second ferry arrives and then it’s time to pay our fare. We put our bags on a wooden platform in the middle of the boat together with some other bags and suitcases. Hopefully it will stay dry there.

The decayed ship

At last the boat clusters are unloading and we see the quay getting smaller and smaller we are on our way. At least we are leaving earlier the big ferries, which can mean an advantage having a (good) spot in het bus and/or the hostel later on the island. But if the boat starts to really starts his motors, a big bang of water comes in which makes me wet and Nicole too, the girl have met in the bus, who is sitting next to me.

The bags are a bit wet from it too. Our boat is now turning against the waves and it is sometimes frightening how high we are being pushed up the waves. What a force that water, and that on a lake of which we already see the island (Isla de Ometepe). We do not get such a big water rush as we do at the turn, occasionally we hear a gust of water against the jute.

My pants get a little wet and the water enters the boat next to my shoes but immediately rinses backwards - a matter of lifting your feet and waiting. Along the way we occasionally take a piece of jute away to see what the view looks like - something that is getting better and better. We see volcano Concepcion, one of the most symmetrical volcanoes in Latin America but also one of the most active and dangerous. It looks like it has a white cowboy hat on it, which is actually a white cloud that is constantly hanging over its crater.

If we can distinguish things from the island, the wind decreases and with it the waves and agility and the jute sail is removed so that we have a beautiful picture of the second volcano of the island, which is a lot less impressive (Maderas). After more than an hour we arrive in the small harbor of "Moyogalpa" where we decide to take the bus directly to "Altragracia" knowing that today we have to take every opportunity in terms of transport that there is.

The finca

We drive in the bus over "Playa Santa Domingo", an ash-gray beach where the wind has free rein and some bars and cafes are without being too abundant. Balgue is an elongated community with the occasional cafe, shop and some houses, but I can not think why everyone (especially the classrooms) are so lyrical about this place.

Together with a woman who has a restaurant here we get out and we start to follow her. The gravel path rises more steeply and turns into stone - we walk through a plantation and along some dry trees and bushes until we finally see some buildings after 1.5 kilometers. We arrived at the finca.

A large wooden platform where tables and chairs stand up and people sit and eat and drink and we report to the reception whether there are any sleeping places. There are - what do we want? We look at options for dormitory and separate sleeping quarters and opt for the first. Sleeping in a tent on a wooden deck next to the restaurant or in a hammock which seems to us no suitable option. There are only three beds in our dormitory, and I do not think anyone will be there today. The time that is left to us today is spent hanging on the terrace and reading.

the pick-up

The finca is beautiful but we both miss a "homy" feeling and decide to check out after breakfast. It is sweating weather again when we walk back to the road via the gravel path. It is better on the asphalt and we try to get a lift a few times but we are not lucky yet. After a short break we pick up our bags again and start walking down the road that quickly after the crossing turns into a gravel path and then into a very annoying rock path where even motorcycles and 4WDs have to take it easy.

After about a kilometer on the path a pick-up truck stops and makes it clear that we can jump on the back. It turns out to be a group of young people from Managua and they are here on holiday and head towards Merida. Our big bags lies on the bottom and I sit on the tailgate.

Despite the fact that the car is driving very quietly, you have to hold on very well and be careful. It is still about a kilometer or five dangling in the trunk when we finally arrive in Merida. I am happy to get of, but I am even happier that we could drive this path. We check in in the other hostel which is more “alive”.

tips & advice (2013)

Bus Moyogalpa to Altagracia: this takes about one hour (17 C $). And then buses to Balgue and / or Merida go less often (infrequent). The bus from Altagracia to Balgue took about an hour and also cost 17C $. The bus directly from Merida to San Jose del Sur on the way back was 30 C $, while the boat (ferry) was 55 C $.

San Jorge to Rivas was 25 C $ by taxi (collectivo) and for the bus from Rivas to Penas de Blancas (border with Costa Rica) I paid 20 R $.

TIP: Do not forget that you have to pay 1 USD (or in Cordoba = 25) tax and pay USD 2 (or in Cordoba = 50) for the (departure) tax for leaving Nicaragua.

Name: Finca de Magdalena (Balgue)

Price: 100 C $ (dormitory)

Phone nr. : 8880204

Website: www.fincamagdalena.com

Content:

You have to do some work for this because this finca is about 1.5 km from the road and can only be reached by an ascending gravel path what can be, especially when you walk in the middle of the day, very hot and heavy. When you arrive at the finca you see that it is a large complex/area with many buildings.

The main building has two large wooden platforms - one serves as a restaurant and reception and the other to set up tents and give people the opportunity to sleep in the hammock. Behind it are a number of rooms (most of the small dormitories) and a number of rooms for only sleepers. To my knowledge, there are also options for sleeping upstairs. A good number of toilets and showers are in the back.

The view from the wooden platforms could have been fantastic if it were not for the trees to grow properly in sight of the lake and the volcano is no longer visible. The food is good and affordable - I thought it was a bit boring although the beach and petroglyphs are not far away.

Name: Hostal "Monkey Island" (Merida)

Price: 375 C $ (double)

Phone nr. : 89857800

Website: www.freewebs.com/monkeysisland

Content:

This is a more "homy" hostal if you compare it with the finca in Balgue. Even if the bus is going in this direction it’s still quite out of the way. If you finally arrive you come to an area with a large piece of concrete floor covered with tables and chairs. The rooms are built in clusters around them with small stone paths.

You can choose between a dormitory, doubles and according to me you can also sleep in your hammock or tent. The staff is friendly and helpful. Especially the "double" (if you can find someone to share) is a very good deal, because you have your own toilet and shower and a quiet room with a terrace with two rocking chairs.

You can do various things from here; such as a walk to the waterfall (4 hours in total), a kayak trip or a hike on the volcano Maderas.