Meknes and Volubilis

Medina (Meknes):

The heart of the old historic center of Meknes must be the central square Place El-Hedim. The large square in the Medina was once the place where public executions took place and later Royal events and parades. The square is at the entrance of the royal city Bab El-Mansour and the bazaar - the market with its narrow alleys and streets.

The Grande Mosquee and the Medersa Bou Inania are located in the northeast of the square; you can climb to the roof of the mosque to see the high minarret up close and enjoy the view. Also, the current Dar Jamaii museum is located on the square which was once the palace of the powerful Jamaii family. In French times it was used as a military hospital. It is seen as one of Morocco's best museums. 

The Bab El-Mansour gate is the most grotesque and impressive of all in Morocco. Built in 1732, it is only open during major holidays. In the old King's city you can also visit the mausoleum of sultan Moulay Ismail which made Meknes the capital in the 17th century. Not far from the mausoleum are the old parade grounds Koubbat as-Sufara now known under the name Place Lalla Aouda. Here the sultan inspected his famous "black troops" composed of slaves. Known for their hardness, not only did they solve internal problems, but they also drove out European powers of the country as well as the Ottomans from Morocco.

They were paid with "women" and the promise that their children could join the elite troops they formed. Finally, you can visit Koubbat as-Sufara which is a small reception house for foreign ambassadors. At 2 km southeast of the mausoleum you will find the Heri es-Souan which were the stables of the sultan. This beautiful architectural work was good for 12,000 horses. You can also take a walk around the Agdal basin, the reservoir laid out for relaxation but also the spraying of the gardens of sultan Moulay Ismail.

Volubilis:

Volubilis was a Roman settlement in the north of present-day Morocco. Presumably the city was built on the remains of an earlier city of Carthaginians from the 3rd century BC. The ruin city was the administrative center for this part of Roman Africa. In the fertile region, large-scale grain was grown and exported to Rome.

At the height of the city, some 20,000 people would live here. In Volubilis contacts between the Berber tribes and the Romans also took place. The Romans have never succeeded in subduing these tribes. When that brought mutual benefit, the Berbers worked together with the Romans. Unlike in the case of many other Roman cities, Volubilis was not abandoned after the Romans lost their bases in this part of Africa in the 3rd century and they themselves left.

Latin remained in use for centuries by the remaining Greeks, Berbers, Jews and Syrians and was only supplanted by the Arab advance at the end of the 7th century. People continued to live in Volubilis for a period of 1,000 years. The city was only abandoned in the 18th century to be demolished and to supply building material for the construction of the palaces of Moulay Ismail in nearby Meknes. If this demolition had not taken place, Volubilis might have been one of the best-preserved Roman sites worldwide. Nevertheless, the ruins are in good condition and some 30 high-quality mosaics are still in their original place. In 1997 Volubilis was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List. 

Volubilis is located about 33 km north of Meknes. Some things you can see here are the Capitol, bath houses, a basilica, the Forum, Roman pillars and arches, Roman residences but also an old woman's skeleton, an olive press and beautifully preserved mosaics.

The city has its origins in a settlement of Miknasa Berbers, who had settled in this area since the 9th century. At the beginning of the 10th century there was a group of small villages on the site of the current city of Meknes. These Miknasa settlements were strongholds of anti-Idrisid sentiment and fought for years against the dynasty.

In 927 the Miknasa defeated the Idrisids and were able to take Fez (and most of Morocco). In the 11th century came the Almoravids, who built a military settlement there in 1063, after which a walled city was built around this army camp. The construction of this military camp is often seen as the actual foundation of the current Meknes. The Almoravids gave the city the name Tagrart ('army camp' in the Berber). The city was besieged for 20 years; the inhabitants fiercely opposed the growing kingdom and the city was destroyed by them, and then rebuilt to a larger extent. The Almohads built the Nejjarine mosque, which still exists and is the oldest building in Meknes. 

Among the Merinides, Meknes developed into one of the most important cities in Morocco. They built numerous mosques, madrassas and forts. Due to its location, the city escaped attacks by the Banu Hilal, allowing Meknes to grow steadily. By the end of the 14th century it was a stronghold of Sharifen and Berber Zulu leaders, who regularly revolted against the authority of the kings. Berber Maraboets of the zaouïa of Dilat, was able to take Meknes in 1640 and spread their authority over the entire northern part of Morocco.

From 1664, Dila's maraboets came into conflict with a new power from the south, the Alawites. Like the Saadis, they also had a Bedouin-Sharifian origin, and had effectively taken over the power in the South. In 1666 the Dila's were defeated and the Alaouites came to rule all over Morocco. Under the government of Moulay Ismail, Meknes became the capital of the Alawite empire for a short period, from 1675 to 1728. Moulay Ismail had the capital built up with beautiful buildings. When Marakkesh became the capital, the city collapsed due to an earthquake that partly destroyed the city. Other buildings were demolished to be rebuilt elsewhere. 

In 1912, the French arrived, bombed the city to military headquarters and built a "Ville Nouvelle". French settlers also came along to start mining the land around Meknes. Meknes is now a touristy city.