Fez (Fes)

Fes El-Bali (old Fes):

Bab Bou Jeloud is the main entrance gate of the old city that leads to two main roads that go straight through the Medina. The historic city is surrounded by a city wall that still stands because of the presence of the "Ville Nouvelle" and the many cemeteries that surround the city.

Within these walls there is another world with narrow alleys, shady streets and hidden corners, markets (bazaars) with small shops. Camel heads hang on door frames to indicate that there is a specialized butcher's shop here, (mule) donkeys walk with big carts behind them on special "slippers" and children help “lost” tourists in the right direction. 

Near Bab Bou Jeloud is the beautiful Medersa Bou Inania - one of the city's architectural miracles. This school was built by the Mereniden between 1350 and 1357 and besides impressive plasterwork it also contains beautiful tiles and woodwork. From the roof you can enjoy a unique view over the old city. The spiritual heart of the Medina is the "Kairaouine" mosque, which is also in the middle of the old city. Built in the 9th century by Tunisian refugees, this mosque now houses some 20,000 believers.

Unfortunately, non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the mosque. One of the most remarkable sights are the tanneries of Fes. If you walk all the way to the north of the Medina (about 150 meters northeast of the mosque - see above) you can climb a balcony for a small contribution to admire the paint tanks from above. Other special or interesting buildings in the old city are: Medersa el-Attarine or the art museums Nejjarine, Dar Batha museum or the Belghazi museum.

Fes El-Jdid (new Fes):

The new Fes was built in the 13th century by order of Sultan Abu Youssef Yacoub and is located between the Medina and Ville Nouvelle. Unfortunately you can not enter the old palace of the sultan but the gate is very impressive (Dar el-Makhzen).

Part of the new Fes is Mullah, the Jewish quarter. In the 14th century the city became a refuge for many Jews and they built their own city in the city. Today you can, for example, visit the Habarim or Ibn Danan synagogue with the associated cemetery.

The Rue de Merinides is also special because of the very different styles of building; see the wooden and iron balconies there.

Like many Moroccan cities, Fez was greatly expanded by the Almohad and the rural aspect was reduced. This was done partly by settling there Andalusian immigrants and improving the infrastructure. At the beginning of the 13th century they broke off the existing walls and laid new ones that embraced a much larger area. These walls still stand as the walls of Fez el-Bali. Under the Almohad, the city grew so fast that it was even the largest city in the world between 1170 and 1180. In 1250, Fes regained her status as the capital of the Merinids.

In 1276 they founded Fez Jdid (New Fez), which became their administrative and military center. Fez reached its peak among the Merinids. It is during this period that Fez became known as an important intellectual center. The Merinids built the first independent madrassas in the city. Most important monuments in the medina, residences and public buildings date from this period.

The Jewish quarter of Fez, the Mellah, was built in 1438, near the royal palace in Fez Jdid. Among the Merinids, Fez became a center of the Shurafa (descendants of the Prophet Muhammad). The Merinids were overthrown in an uprising in 1465, after which a leader of the Shurafa came to power in Fez. In 1474 succeeded the Wattasiden, a clan related to the Merinides, to get hold of Fes and most of northern Morocco. They managed to retain the power until 1559. 

In 1549 the city was conquered by the Saadi but they could no longer hold the city. One of the strong empires of the early modern period, the Ottoman Empire, came closer after the conquest of Oran. In 1554 the Wattasids took over Fez with Ottoman support. This was followed by the proclamation of Marrakesh as the new capital and residence of the Saadian dynasty. The Ottomans saw the inhabitants of Morocco more as neighbors than as enemies and concentrated on the Portuguese and the Spaniards who posed a greater threat.

Fez and other North African cities enjoyed relatively great independence. After Moulay Hafiz handed over control over Morocco to the French in 1912, they started building modern Fez outside the city walls from 1916 onwards. After the French protectorate, in 1956, the city had a strong outflow of residents of the extensive Jewish quarter. Many Jewish residents chose a new life in the still young state of Israel over a potentially uncertain future in an independent Morocco. Fez is nowadays to be found in every tour of (Western) tourists and the city is next to an important trade center also a tourist city.