Djenne is located on the edge of the Sahara, on an island in the Bani river, a tributary of the mighty Niger. The city is best known for the age-old mudbrick architecture of the buildings and is therefore one of the highlights of a visit to West Africa in general and Mali in particular. Little has changed since the heyday of the city when there was a lot of trade between North and West Africa across the Sahara in the 14th and 15th centuries.
While a city like Timbuktu then fell into disrepair, that was not the case with Djenne, on the contrary. The weekly market, at the foot of the picturesque beautiful mosque with its battlements, towers and the reinforcements of beams that protrude from the walls, attracts populations from the distant surroundings. The streets with the Sahel style built mudbrick houses and the nearby villages of the Fula and Bozo tribes can be visited by bike, (rented) moped, horse and carriage and boat.
Mosque
The Great Mosque of Djenné is considered one of the highlights of Sahel architecture worldwide. It is the largest, mudbrick building in the world. In a distant past there was a palace at this location. In the 13th century, this palace was converted into a mosque.
Construction began in 1834 and lasted until 1896. This building was to be demolished a few years later. In 1906 the construction of the current building was started. A madrassa (Islamic school) was also set up. The building has three square minarets, a covered prayer room and a large courtyard surrounded by a cloister.
To the left of the main entrance is a walled cemetery. This is the only part of the mosque that dates from the 13th century. After each rainy season the mosque is plastered again by specially trained construction workers. The sticks that protrude everywhere serve as an aid for keeping the mudbrick in place.
Inner city
The center of the city of Djenne is one of the oldest in Mali and has remained almost unchanged in previous centuries. Small narrow gravel paths run between the different types of mudbrick houses that often have three floors; the upper one is for the residents, the second for slaves and the lower one for goods and (burden) animals.
There are madrassas (Koran schools), a centuries-old source, beautifully carved gates, doors columns and perhaps the decorated windowframes are the highlight of a stroll in the old town. And do not forget to talk with the locals which are friendly, helpfull and very interested in strangers. In 1988, the mosque, together with the historic city center of Djenné, was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
On Monday morning it is a must to take a look at the weekly market on the square in front of the mosque. This market has been there for centuries and the remarkable and interesting thing is that there are no souvenirs for tourists. In spite of the tourists draw the market is and stays for locals.
Other attractions:
Djenne - Segou: On the edge of the main market square are the buses and there are a number of people behind tables where bus tickets are sold. The trip to Segou takes about 4 hours (if you have succeeded) and costs 5000 CFA. Do not pay more than 500 CFA for your luggage.
At restaurant Kita Kourou you can recover from the heat and the stress of people who want something from you. "Tion Tion" is a favorite local dish with lots of onions, tomato, sauce, rice and you can also get chicken.
Price: 8000 CFA (single)
Content:
I would really recommend anyone visiting Djenne to stay one night and to take a walk in the evening through this ancient town that has not changed much in centuries. And if you stay here then book a room in this hotel. The courtyard is in fact fairytale-like. Built in Moorish Moroccan style you can enjoy the beautiful mystical arches and there
is an old well in the middle of the courtyard.
You can have breakfast in the garden for 1000 CFA and dine for about 2500 CFA. The rooms are fine and are located around the courtyard. You can also sleep on the roof on a mattress. The owner is helpful and very friendly as well as the other staff.
Everybody you meet is very secretive and mystik about a visit inside the mosque - probably to round up the price but on the one hand no Muslims are allowed to enter, but on the other hand they can. Do not pay too much, and say that you have visited mosques like this before and do not be too eager - I paid 3000 CFA and was on the other side of the street within 10 minutes.
There are no banks in Djenne, so come to this tourist town with money in you’re pocket. Beware of the waste pipes that come from every mudbrick house. When the toilet is flushed, the dirt is pumped through these pipes to the gutters in the streets. With a little accident you are exactly underneath it.
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