Riga is the capital of Latvia but also of the Baltic States – actually Riga is the only really big city in the region which is immediately clear when you visit it. Located on the western Dvina river the city is a lot rougher than the other capitals Vilnius and Tallinn in Lithuania and respectively Estonia.
The old part is a labyrinth of small narrow alleys, streets and squares with cobbled stone-streets that have not been changed in centuries - at least if you ignore the little tourist-van and the droning music that comes from some pubs.
Especially in the new part of the city the Art Nouveau screams for perhaps even more attention than in the old part. Also the many "war occupation" museums that the city is known for needs attention. For the rest Riga has everything a big modern city has; from discotheque to stylish restaurant and from cafe or bar to kebab shop.
The old town and the Black Headhouse
The beautiful guilded-hall of unmarried German merchants, named after the man's head they put in their arms. During WWII the house was badly damaged and the Russians razed it to the ground some seven years later. Somehow the construction drawings were preserved and an exact replica was reconstructed in 2001 in honor of the 800th anniversary of the city.
Legend has it that during a cold Christmas Eve in the year 1510 the unmarried men held a party in their clubhouse. The drunk men brought in a large pine tree and decorated it with flowers. This action would be the cause that millions of people on the earth nowadays buy a Christmas tree every year and decorate it. At the end of the evening they also carried the tree outside and lit it. Christmas tree burns are also performed in some places.
The highlight of a visit to Riga and perhaps to Latvia is the old town. Winding cobblestone streets take you to a medieval center with architectural delights; it is not for nothing on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Besides the Art Nouveau district, which is more to the north, there are plenty of examples in the old town too. The center of the city center is the square Ratslaukums with the beautiful city hall, the black main house and the occupation museum. You have to search a bit, but here is also a plaque that indicates where the first Christmas tree burning ever took place.
Next to the Town Hall Square, the city has two well-known squares; the Doma Laukums with the great St. Mary's Cathedral (Dom) built in 1211 and the tiny barricade museum in 1991. The other square is called Peterbaznica Laukums and houses the Nativity of Christ Cathedral, the largest orthodox church of the Baltic States. Until WWII the houses in Riga were built mainly of wood. Exceptions to the rule are the three brother houses which are the three oldest stone houses in the city.
The oldest house, number 17, dates from the 15th century. The gunpowder or powder tower of Riga is the only tower still standing of the old city wall and dates back to the 14th century. In the past, this tower was the main entrance to the city and had a defense function. Until the 18th century the tower was used as a prison. Nowadays she is part of the War Museum. Nearby are currently shops and bars in the "Jacob's barracks" that once were a gigantic large department store, built in the 16th century.
Latvia’s occupation museum
Next to the black main house (see above) and on the main square "Doma Laukums" you can find the occupation museum of Latvia. Here you will find all information from the occupation period between 1940 when Latvia was occupied by the Russians until 1991 when the country became independent again.
During WWII Latvia was also occupied by the Nazis and later to be "liberated" in 1944 by the Red Army. There followed a long period of Soviet oppression. The museum is ironically situated in the big gray bunker, built as a Soviet museum. The Latvians jokingly call this building "the black cupboard".
Art Nouveau district
If you think that the old town is the most beautiful and impressive part of the city of Riga, you should visit the "Art Nouveau" district – situated just north of the city center. Here is the largest collection of Art Nouveau or Jugendstil buildings in the world - about 750 pieces! "Art Nouveau" is an art movement created between 1880 and 1914.
Characteristic of this art movement are an optimistic belief in the future, inspiration from nature, modern techniques and many decorations. Most of the specimens can be found in the Alberta-street and the Elizabetes-street. There are, among other things, creations by the architect filmmaker Eisenstein, famous for his film the Panzer cruiser Potemkin.
Regro's shooting range
If you always wanted to show your skills on a shooting range, this is your chance. On the other side of the river Daugava lies between the undeveloped terrain that is being prepared for a new road the underground bunker of Regro's. You can shoot at this shooting range with different weapons such as a klashnikov or an uzi and you pay per bullet.
The ambiance that surrounds it reminds you of the 70s and you feel like you're in the TV studios of "Charlie's Angels" or "Dallas". On the walls are heavily armed Russian (nude) models with fur lined up in squeaky little bikinis. In one of the shooting halls you can choose your "victim" yourself. James Bond is wanted!
Other attractions:
Founded in 1201 by the German bishop "Albert von Buxhoevden", the city of Riga was used as a bridgehead for the crusade against the Northern pagans. It became a stronghold for the knights of the sword and the central trading post between Russia and the West. In 1621 the then superpower Sweden conquered the city and it became the largest city in the Swedish Empire - even bigger than Stockholm.
Trade flourished and the city did a lot of business with the rich Republic of Holland that imported a lot of wood and hemp. The Russians under Peter the Great conquered Latvia during the Great Northern War and provided an industrial boost after the long war that had raged - Riga became the largest timber port in the world in the 19th century and the third Russian city behind Moscow and St. Petersburg. In the 20th century, as in other (large) cities in Europe, cafés, salons, restaurants and intellectual life grew until this was totally destroyed in WWI.
It was not until 1917 that Riga was occupied by German armies. When Germany capitulated a few months later Latvia became independent. The attention shifted from Germany to England, which had emerged victorious from the battle. On 1 July 1941, after Riga was occupied once again by the Soviets a year before, it was "liberated" by the Nazis. Latvian fascists took their chance and killed 30,000 Jews; the other half of the 60,000 Jews were imprisoned in the Riga ghetto and then murdered in Salaspils by the German SS.
After WWII, thousands of Latvians were sent to re-education camps (gulags) in Siberia, another industrialization-period took place in Riga. Many Russian workers were attracted, which meant that only one-third of Riga's inhabitants were Latvian. But despite the Russian occupation of almost half a century, the city remained culturally on a high level and always looked to the West and the future. Riga celebrated its 800th anniversary in 2001, ten years after independence.
Every now and then the tension flares up between the Russian minority in the city, which has declined considerably after 1991 and the Latvian residents. Russian language schools and the desire to recognize Russian as the second official language are sensitive subjects.
The (international) bus station is next to the market halls and to the center. It is a bit chaotic but efficient. Not far from the bus station is the modern train station.
Riga - Salaspils: take the train towards "Darzini" (Ogre - Krustpils route), then walk for a quarter of an hour to Salaspils.
Riga - Jurmala: take the train to station "Majori" - then you get out in the center of Jurmala. It takes about 15 to 20 minutes and a ticket costs 1 pay.
Riga - Rundale Palace: first you have to take the bus to the city "Bauska" (one hour) and there at the station transfer to a minbus to "Pilsrundale" (15 minutes) - you get off in front of the palace.
Riga - Sigulda: this bus departs about every hour twice, it takes about 1 ¼ hours and the price is 1.50 Ls
Address: Smilsu iela 20
Open: Wednesday to Sunday 10:00 to 17: 00 / 18:00
Price: free
Time: 1 hour - 1.5 hours
Website: www.karamuzejs.gov.lv
Content:
It has something old-fashioned and Russian about it; it is quite dark and the halls are big and in every room there is a "babooshka" on guard. Most (English) information is on copied stencils that are placed in a card box which does not really work. But it is free and gives a good idea of the different stages of Latvian history. Especially the two world wars the Russian occupation afterwards is highlighted.
Address: Latviesu Strelnieku Laukums 1
Open: Every day from 11:00 to 17: 00 / 18:00
Price: free
Time: 2 hours
Website: www.occupationmuseum.lv
Content:
Very professionally decorated museum; when you arrive at the highest floor you will first see a movie about life in the gulag on a TV, after which you will be informed about the various most important events in the 20th century by means of good English (but also other languages) instruction sheets. The Russian occupation follows the short-lived independence on which the Nazis occupy the country and are then "liberated" by the Red Army. A partisan war follows and only in 1991 there is real independence.
Price: free
Time: 15 minutes
Content:
They have been open for two years now, but a lot still needs to be done if this museum really wants to attract a lot of people. I am aware of the fact that it is a memorial as a memory of the Jewish community in Riga but found it very minimal what this museum has to offer. Right now the imitated house that once stood in the Jewish ghetto is not finished yet, and this should most likely be the highlight, but the information panels outside show far too much detailed information for an "average" museum visitor.
There are dozens of houses that have stood in the Jewish quarter, people who have lived there but there is no introduction, no general information how it all started etc. No head and no tail! It is located just outside the center, near the market, the bus and train station but if you ask me it is not worth it (yet) to go there.
Open: Monday to Friday 10:00 - 17:00, Saturday 11:00 - 17:00
Price: free
Time: 30 minutes
Website: www.barikades.lv
Content:
This museum is very hard to find because it is not well signposted, and most people will pass by accident. There are three rooms and everything is only indicated in the Latvian language. The first room gives an impression of a living room in the 50's or 60's and the last one is filled up with photos of resistance fighters from that time.
The second room is the most striking with a counterfeit fire and a large model that shows how It has looked something around the cathedral, you can sit on one of the chopped tree trunks to watch a documentary about the uprising in Riga against the Russian occupation, of course you can give a donation.
Price: 5 Lt (usually) incl. Breakfast
Content:
Near the center is this well-organized hostel situated. The rooms are spread over two floors and it has a number of apartments with rooms with a different number of beds. Clean, WIFI, included breakfast, clean sheets and a towel, what more could you wish for?
There is a kitchen, a common room and next to the building is a shop where you can buy almost everything. Coffee, tea and milk are free. In addition to the center which is within walking distance, is also the bus and train station around the corner next to the central market. The number of showers in my apartment is a bit on the low side.
Price: 5.50 Ls incl. Breakfast
Content:
Located at the center and overlooking the train station, this hostel is centrally located on the fourth floor of a large building where McDonalds is also located. The bus station is practically next to it. Dangerous for your health as you have to walk to the elevator through the restaurant.
There is a kitchen and a narrow hall with two computers. The showers are fine although the dormitory is very small (there are two). If they only take out that little annoying coffee table that would be so much nicer. Lockers are available and coffee, tea and milk are available free of charge.
Address: Dauvaggrivas iela 31
Open: Monday to Saturday 10:00 to 17:00 (Sunday only by appointment)
Price: the bullets of the different weapons vary from 0.80 Ls to 2 Ls
Transport: on foot or by tram 13, 13A
Content:
A low threshold shooting range where you can play without paying too much. The course breathes an atmosphere from the 70s and the pin-up posters, dark old furniture and the staff contribute to this. You can shoot with a pistol, revolver, Walther, UZI or an AK47.
It is equally difficult to find this place and perhaps it will disappear in a year (when the new road is finished) but now look between the cranes for a gray shack with a black target. It is claimed that you have to bring an ID or passport, but this has never been asked to me.
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