The route with the bus from Liepaja to Kuldiga zigzags through the Courland; if I think we are going to the right we go left and vice versa. The roads are narrow and sometimes bad - the asphalt has been beaten away at some spots and there are some bumps and potholes.
Farmers and I assume students help to hay on the land and occasionally I see a barking dog standing in front of an old dilapidated fence. Bleached walls of houses and deserted ruins in small villages that we pass but there is always a large, empty bus station somewhere. Not completely empty, often there is at least one taxi with a sleeping driver in it.
Koerland became an autonomous area and Duke Jakob even created his own fleet in the 17th century. It is an area full of woods, lakes and small villages where life seems to have standstill for dozens of years. Kuldiga was the capital of the Duke of the area between 1596 and 1616 contains an arsenal of old wooden houses and small narrow streets with cobbled stones. A small house was also built to protect the ruins of the castle, which, as legend says, has served as a place where executions and beheadings took place in the 18th century.
The river would colored red at that time. Now there is a beautiful garden with sculptures. After many struggles, the West of present-day Latvia came under Russian rule in the following century, which would not change till WWI. The Germans occupied the country. At the end of WWII, one of the most bitter battles between the Nazis and the Red Army took place until May 1945 in this area. There is still a German sphere of influence over the town that is often referred to as "Goldingen", his former German name.
The station of Kuldiga is located outside the center and is located between a large modern supermarket and a local hardware store. I walk to the center and enjoy this beautiful undiscovered gem far away from the capital. What is striking is the number of "pawn-shops" here in Latvia - I did not know that they were doing such good business in the Baltic States.
At the information center, which is located in another unique wood copy of architecture, I book a room in the local gym. Contrary to what I thought (as it works in Poland with the schools), it functions as a hostel all year round. It is not far to my sleeping accommodation and I arrange my business with a woman who is seated in the reception room.
I get a room with a bed which is exactly what I want. I flop my bag on the floor and turn around to see the widest waterfall in Europe not far out of town.
From the bridge I can indeed see how the water sweeps a meter or two down the entire river. Swimmers try to walk to the beginning of the fall via some rocks and stones and later on I see sun worshipers lying on the grass. I myself walk back to the hill where the fort of Kuldiga once stood.
On the banks of the river Ventas Rumba is the ruin of the castle of the Latvian knighthood, built in the 13th century. Unfortunately, it was shot in ruins during the Great Northern War. Now there is a museum and images and sculptures have been placed in the surrounding garden.
What intrigues me the most is the architecture in this city. And not only me because I read that several films have been recorded here. I occasionally feel like I'm in a western with all those wooden houses here.
Lviv people:
The last of the “real” Lviv people can be found in Koerland. Despite the fact that most Latvians are descended from this traditional tribe, now there are 200 “pure” Lviv’s left.
They live in about 14 small fishing villages on the Baltic coast south of Kape Kolka. Although the original Lviv language is still taught at the primary school and the University of Tartu, only 20 people around the world can still be found, which we say speaks their native language.
In the main street of the city where about 13,000 people live, "Liepaja iela" has been renamed as a pedestrian zone. I sit down at a bakery, of which there are quite a lot here, and order a delicious sweet pastry and a cup of coffee. I chat with the girl behind the counter and look jealous at the cat lying next to me in a different chair.
There are also many cats walking around here - you do not see (stray) dogs. I take a look at a sweet little Russian church with its lemon-colored onion dome and its brick walls. After my walk through the town I try the library that reportedly offers free internet. It turns out to be the day that they are closed in the afternoon.
The supermarket is one where you should not think a lot of; there is no fresh bread and the employees do not cooperate if you are English speaking. Simply pick up and pay.
The small modern station is situated a bit outside the city but certainly within walking distance.
Kuldiga - Riga: There are different types of buses that drive between Kuldiga and Riga - fast and slow; the time varies from 2.5 to 3.5 hours to the capital. I paid 4.50 Lt for a fast bus. There are about 12 per day.
Kartojums (or rupjmaizes karojums) is an old Viking recipe made from bread crumbs, cream and honey which is the region and city is known for.
Address: Kalna Iela 6
Price: 5 Ls
Phone nr. : 63322465
Website: kuldiga.sp.skola@inbox.lv
Content:
From the outside it does not look very bright and nice, but inside it is fine. The toilet is at the end of the corridor and the rooms are painted in light colors and there is a bed, table, cupboard and two chairs. There is parquet (wood) on the floor and it is clean.
You get clean sheets, a towel and only the shower is very awkwardly located in the basement. WIFI worked in my room and the location of the building is perfect, just behind the information center. Constantly there is someone present below and with a little luck you have no neighbors and a perfect "quiete" night.
During the Midsummer festival there is a real "naked" running race. Unfortunately I missed this and this is also almost not indicated - you can only wear your "sauna" cap, whatever that may mean; and you can only wear this on your head!
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