Jurmala

At the train station I buy a ticket to Midori station which should be the most famous district of Jurmala. When the train takes really off after a shocking and stuttering start, the -wagon-master quickly arrives to ask for my ticket. We cross a large wide river and arrive in Jurmala district - which consists of some 13 hamlets.

It is traditionally an old Russian jet-set area where oil-magnates and their trophy women spent their time and is due to that known for their beautiful architecture. I get off at Midori station and ask the information office for the best neighborhood (with the most striking architecture) and the best route to walk around. Because the weather is OK; the sun shines a bit, I first walk to the beach where I see just one person sunbathing on the beach.

For the rest there are some hikers and there are some people on the terrace. Beach shacks enough, next to glass bins, benches, changing rooms, toilets, boats, toilets, a beach volleyball court and a bouncy castle. It looks like a circus though. If I walk further I come across the beautiful gray building which I have seen a few times on maps and photos - unfortunately it is time to renovate it and there is a fence around it. What it once was unclear. When I walk up again in the other direction, I see some big wooden houses and some ruins between the greenery.

I decide to walk down the beach, also because the wind starts to blow, but not after I take a look at the symbol of Jurmala - the big turtle.

Jurmala as a tourist resort: 

There are actually two main streets in Jurmala; a pedestrian zone full of (souvenir) shops, restaurants and hotels and the other with rows of beautiful wooden Art Nouveau houses. Gardens are beautifully kept though you have to be careful that not suddenly a big dog comes running from nowhere towards you.

Some houses are in need of renovation but most are kept in a perfect state till the last detail. For me personally it is a bit disappointing with the real “Art Nouveau” deal, especially after I walked yesterday through the "Jugendstill" district in Riga. Close to the station I find a very cozy but old-fashioned eatery.

I order a fat snack and sit down while checking out the whole setting that looks like it’s coming from a movie-set. The tablecloths are orange, the napkins are pink, the ceiling is made of gold and there are long white curtains that I think have been crocheted by the woman herself. I feel like a tourist in a very authentic pub deep in London while I feel at home there too. Then I see the train coming and say goodbye to the people that are still looking at me like I’m from Mars.