Glendalough

Travel Stories - Ireland

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introduction

I wake up very early and pack up my tent and stuff from the campsite in Wexford. It is already seven o'clock when I walk the long bridge over to the other side and head towards the roundabout where the train station is located. There the door just opens up and I buy a ticket (17.35 euros) from here to Rathdrum. I’m definitely in time and can breathe normally waiting on the platform till the train arrives; we leave at 7:40 and I take a four-seat with a table in the middle.

I have about an hour and take out my food bag. The route is beautiful and I’m enjoying the view while eating a sandwich from my bag. The conductor seems to have been doing this for years, because he knows almost all travelers - he points out that I almost have to get off. For the first time I really hear Irish (Gallic) which is not understandable for me at all. It is not yet nine o'clock when I walk out of the trainstation and walk towards the small main road.

I remember what the man behind the counter said this morning and walk down the hill to the village. There I write down the name of "Glendalough" on a piece of paper and ask just in case the road to a woman with a little dog. Just pas the hill she explains me and then to the right. A man passes by and tells me to follow him – he walks with me the whole way.

The main lake

The hostel is packed the girl tells me when I turn up at the counter. A whole group of muslimgirls and their teachers hired the entire hostel for a week and because of that other (male) tourists can’t book a bed here. The owner tells me that I can try to camp behind the shop further up the road.

In the religious shop I talk to the owner and the man tells me that it no problem to put up my tent behind the shop on a field. But there’s nothing; no water, no electricity, nothing. And it’s on my own risk ofcourse. I put my tent in the store and after a coffee it's time to go. Unfortunately many tourist walk around here and it’s impossible to walk on the trails without passing by other people. Ofcourse most people walk towards the main lake further up.

I pass the cloister and the other buildings and decide to go there later. First I want to walk to the black lake which is a bit further away. It is beautiful, green hills on both sides, but if I’m honest I expected a bit more of it. And the crowds don’t make it better. At the lake there are some relics from Kevin’s time; himself lived near Kevin's Cell, a stone building in the shape of a beehive. A church was later added. Also nearby is St. Kevin's Bed, a cave in which according to the stories St. Kevin also retired. I walk to the lake and take some pictures of the view.

Glendalough:

Glendalough is a monastery establishment founded by St. Kevin. The remains belong to the oldest Christian remains of Europe. The name Glendalough is derived from Irish: Gleann Dá Locha meaning Valley of the two lakes, referring to the lakes in the valley called Lower - and Upper Lough.

In the sixth century St. Kevin lived in the valley of Glendalough as a hermit. Due to the influx of followers, a monastic community soon emerged. In the twelfth century this community would have expanded to 3000 people and the valley counted not less than seven churches. From the tenth century Glendalough was often (at least 4 times) overtaken by Vikings. In 1398 the monastery was almost destroyed, but it was rebuilt.

The end of the monastery complex emerged in 1539 when the monastery was closed by the English king Henry VIII.

Glendalough-Monastery-Church-Ruin-Wall-Tower-Ireland-Lake

The monastery

After visiting the lake I walk back on the other side of the valley over the road, pass some houses where it is a lot quieter; most people stay by the lake and/or walk on the gravelroad back and forth. I occasionally see the wooden platforms where the walking path is. I pass some deer that are kept here and return back to the big hotel. I tell my story (about the fact that the hostel is full tonight) and ask if it is okay that I can sit in the hotel tonight without staying here.

Luckily that’s no problem. Relieved by all this, it is now really time to see the highlights of this valley. The monastery area was originally surrounded by a wall; the gate is still standing, unique to Ireland. Behind it is a large cemetery where local people from the surroundings are still being burried. In 1066 a round tower of 33 meters high was built in the monastery area. The purpose of this type of towers is still not clear. Theories range from clock tower to storage for valuables and shelter for protection against Viking attacks.

More likely, the tower served as a landmark, as a beacon for people looking for the monastery. The round shape offers better resistance to hard wind. A well-preserved chapel from the eleventh century was named St. Kevin's Kitchen during the excavations in the valley, because the tower was reminiscent of a chimney. Furthermore, there is a Romanesque-style church in the area and a building that may have been a priest's residence. St. Kevin's Cross is a sober Celtic cross. It is assumed that the cross was once painted, but that this painting has disappeared by the ravages of time.

The ring around the upper part of the cross is not open, but solid stone.

Laragh

I walk all the way back to the village Laragh which is about 3 km away from Glendalough monastery. It is not much but there is at least a supermarket with something to eat. I'll probably eat my most disgusting doner kebab. It’s 4 euros and I regret that I bought it. On the way back I visit the ruin of Saint Savior church.

It is almost five o'clock when I walk back to the shop and pick up my bag. It starts to drizzle when I walk outside but after putting up the tent it’s starts to rain heavily. I walk back to the big hotel and find a nice spot somewhere in the corner where I can use internet and where I can sit by myself.

I eat there my own sandwiches and later order a Guinness beer at the bar. It’s about ten thirty when I walk back in complete darkness to my tent and brush my teeth a bit further up.

tips & advice (2015)

There is no bus station in Glendalough unfortunately; there is a bus during the week at 07:15 and 09:45 in the morning towards Dublin from the visitor center. Costs 13 euros.

You can eat at the Glendalough hotel but that's pretty pricey. During the day there are three little (shop)cabins open on the waterside near the visitor center and the hotel. Otherwise you have to go to the village Laragh where there is also a very popular restaurant. You can get snacks at the small supermarket there.

Name: Gods cottage

Content:

This is a wild camping spot where you have to ask permission from the man in the store. There is an international hostel in Glendalough but it was full (with a very large group of Muslim girls who had rented the whole hostel for a week). It is near the hotel and the visitor center. You can put your bag in the store during the day.

Glendalough-Monastery-Church-Ruin-Wall-Tower-Ireland-Graveyard-Gravestone