Kaluts, Rayen, Mahan, Kerman

Places of Interest - Iran

Kaluts-National-Park-Iran-Dessert-Rocks-Dunes

introduction

Kerman is located on a large flat plateau at about 1750 meters high and is one of Iran's oldest cities. It is the largest and most developed city in the province with the same name and the most important city of southeastern Iran. This is also the city from which you can discover (learn) the whole region.

This was always the case as it was on the important trade route between Persia on the one hand and the Indian subcontinent on the other hand and also in various periods of the country's capital. The city is known for its long history and has got a strong cultural heritage; countless historical mosques, qanats (underground canals) but also Zorostrian firetemples. It has a very diverse population consisting largely of Persians but also of members of the Baluchi tribe. This mix of people shows you the best in the city's bazaar.

As mentioned, Kerman is a good starting point to discover the region; For example, you can easily visit the Mahan city with its mausoleum, but also the beautiful gardens Bagh-e Shahzde. Closeby Rayen has a very impressive mudbrick citadel but maybe seeing a sunset in the desert of "Kaluts" is the highlight of this region; a unique environment with sandcastles of tens of meters high.

highligths

Mahan (mausoleum) and the gardens:

The city of Mahan, about 25 km from Kerman, is known for its mausoleum of the great "Sufi" leader Shah Ne-emat Ollah-e-Vali. Parts of the mausoleum called Aramgah-e Shah Ne'matollah Vali were built by one of his pupils in the 15th century while the rest was added later.

The complex contains a beautiful garden with flower pots, trees, shrubs and fish in the pool and two minarets that are "tanned" in turquoise tiles. The shah spent many years in Central Asia to perfect his spiritual gifts before he settled in Mahan. He died in 1431 and his "faith" is still active.

Just outside of the city are the beautiful gardens of Bagh-e Shahzde; a complex amidst a desert plain that resembles an oasis. Visited often by locals as tourists alike, it is a thin strip of green with tall trees and a narrow qanat (canal) with small waterfalls. Once upon a time there was the palace of Abdul Hamid Mirza, one of the last princes of the Qajar dynasty. His palace is now a restaurant and this complex is definitely worth visiting.

Rayen castle:

The citadel of the town of Rayen about 110 kilometers from Kerman, is a very impressive mudbrick city built of adobe (which is a kind of earth). It has been very well preserved, despite the many natural disasters that destroyed similar buildings in the neighborhood.

Archaeologists assume that the castle was built 1000 years ago and was even inhabited until 150 years ago. The foundations date from the pre-Islamic Sassanid era. Since 1996 renovations have been ongoing and the governor's house, which is in the corner of the citadel and is a castle in a castle, has been completely renovated.

From the city walls you have a beautiful view of this castle and the "ordinary" city of mudbrick and it’s (old) bazaar. The medieval mudbrick city of Rayen is similar to Arg-e Bam, which was destroyed by an earthquake in December 2003.

The Kaluts

The hottest place on earth is the Dasht-e Lut desert in Iran and the highest measured temperature was in 2005: 70.7 degrees Celcius! The desert has a special natural phenomenon, the so-called calf; These are some kind of sandcastles that can grow up to 60 meters.

They have arisen over the centuries, but nobody knows exactly what the cause is but specialist assume it must be erosion.

The area is about 150 to 80 km wide and a visit (often a sunset) is a must as this phenomenon which is unique in the world. The first castles of the Kaluts are about 125 km from Kerman.

Other sights:

In Kerman there are the museum of the Holy Defense and the bazaar.

history

As stated, Kerman was founded by Ardeshir I, founder of the Sassanite Empire, in the 3rd century BC. He made from the city a defensive border post. After the battle at Nahavand in 642, the city became governed by the Muslim regime. Not later than the 8th century, the city was known for its cashmere wool and other textile products.

The town fell under the Seltsjuksn during the 11th and 12th centuries but remained partially independent. When Marco Polo visited the city in 1271, Kerman was a very important commercial trading post between the Persian Gulf on the one hand and Central Asia on the other. But it was also plundered and destroyed (also for that reason). The VOC also had a long time business in Kerman in the 16th century but had to leave soon.

In 1794 Loft Ali Khan defeated the Qajars and conquered Kerman. When the city was restored, all men were blinded and finished off. The women and children were carried away as slaves. During 90 days the city was completely destroyed. What you see now is a 19th century Kerman when peace was finally there and Kerman fell as part of Iran under Tehran's government. The only thing reminding of the glory days is the many caravanserais around the bazaar.

tips & advice (2014)

The big bus station is very annoying kilometers away from the city (center) situated on a almost empty ring road. As far as I know there are no minibuses going into that direction and you are designated for savarias and/or "regular" taxis. Not many (locals) come here so you have to ask for a shared taxi that is about 10,000 Rial to, for example, "Azadi" square where buses ride to the bazaar.

At the information desk at the station you have little change of good information because most don’t speak English.

Kerman - Yazd: It is said that there are very frequent buses between Kerman and Yazd - I had to wait for 2 hours for a bus leaving at 11:00. Price is 115,000 Rial and we drove for over 6 hours. Office No. 7 sells tickets.

Slightly opposite my hotel was a decent restaurant (near Azadi square), where they sell at least “chelo-kebab". It's clean, the staff is friendly and helpful and it's not a snack shop.

Name: Akhavan Hotel

Address: Ayatollah Saduqi str.

Price: 550.000 Rial (single)

Phone nr. : 2441411

Email: akhavanhotel@yahoo.com

Content:

This almost “fancy” hotel is located about 200 meters from the busy Azadi square on the busy "AS" street. It has sufficient parking space and has an impressive lobby with fancy chairs and many beautiful pictures of sights in and around the city. The brothers Amir and Ascar speak fluent English and can recommend daytrips in the region as well as information about the city. Breakfast is included and is served in the cellar restaurant.

There is no buffet but a daily meal which is all right. I have to admit that I had closed a very good deal (for myself) corcerning the room. Two beds, super clean, wc and shower inside, a refrigerator, AC in a perfect hotel. Disadvantage is that the hotel is quite far from the centre of the city.

Although in Kerman there is not a lot to do (except for the bazaar, some museums etc) is it the perfect springboard to arrange a tour of the region. I arranged a daytrip at the hotel above.

TOUR:

Time : 09:15 – 21:15 (picked up and brought back to your hotel);
Prijs :550.000 Riaal (40 euro total divided by the amount of people; 4 is max);
Included : chauffeur and kilometres of the taxi.

Places of Interest:

Rayen (citadel)(10:30 – 11:30) – 100.000 Rial entrance;
Bagh-e Shahzde Gardens (12:30 – 14:30) – 150.000 Rial entrance;
Mahan (Aramgah-e shah ne-matollah vali) (14:45 – 16:15) – free;
Kaluts (18:00 – 19:30) – free.

Tips:

Take dinner with you if you do not want to eat in Bagh-e Shahzde (cheapest lunch is 115,000 rials); In the Kaluts there is no opportunity to eat, so take some food. Or wait till you're back in your hotel. Our driver had a can of tea for the morning and some cookies. During the Kaluts ride he bought ice cream for us. Another tip is to bring water and especially to the tail of the trip - to the Kaluts.

There can be a lot of wind here (take a sarong or something you can do over your head and / or a cap) and maybe 2 to 3 liters of water a person. Slippers is also not a good plan for the Kaluts as it's rocky, burn the sand and your feet.

Ask if you can go to the qanats and castle in Shahdad; There's plenty of time and you'll get into the real Kaluts later in the middle of summer, over 60 degrees. You actually can visit the mosque in Mahan in about half an hour with all due respect. This tip I received from a tour guide from Shahdad (www.tourguide.blogfa.com). This is a guide, we had a taxi driver - a big difference.

Think about what you want and how much money you want to spend.