Gazor Khan

Travel Stories - Iran

introduction

From Tehran, I took the bus to Quazvin where I got out at an almost empty bus station. A discussion started with countless men (staff of the bus station, taxi drivers and bypassers) about going to the mountain town of Gazor Khan.

Then I decided to walk to a major intersection in the city where I took a taxi to a big roundabout just outside the city – that was suppose to be the place to find a shared taxi to my destination On the side, near the road sign, approximately six or seven cars were parked. The men got almost excited when they saw me with my big backpack, and I smashed their dream immediately. Yes, I want to go to "Gazor Khan" and no I do not want to go alone.

I had to wait, but an hour later we had enough people (four) and we were on our way. It’s very hot but we soon drove into the mountains where the wind was blowing. What did I expect? Green forests, rice fields in abundance and crowding rivers? I see a very brown and light green environment - a rice field, a small village on a hillside and a small river. We stop somewhere for a cup of tea and then re-enter the car. The other two gentlemen got out ealier, while we (Adam, a Frenchman and I) continue to Gazor Khan.

Our intended hostel is full but the woman points up the hill. When we arrive on top there our shirts are wet from the sweat and we meet a hostel owner. There is not a lot of choice. We choose the big room with no beds inside – we both have little mattrasses with us. We haggle a bit of the price off and put our bags in the room.

Progressive Iran

At a kinda “sit-bed” placed outside I meet the neighbour; he lived for years in the United States and is so noticeable quite progressive. Of course, he has to watch his words, but it is clear that he never goes to the mosque and the calls the Revolution (from 1979) the biggest disaster of the 20th century in Iran.

He would love to introduce the great change towards the West today. I see the first woman walking without a veil and the cousin of the man walks with a baseball cap on a veil. We are invited to sit with the family and joint hem. All of us talk about traveling and living in Iran when the Iranian neighbors make a small fire and put chicken on the barbecue.

A little later we also get a plate. We end up with tea as we break up and go to the room. I put two light mattresses on top of each other and get into my liner. It's not cold but definitely not as hot as it was in Tehran.

The castles of the assassins

The castles of the Assassins

On the bed that stands on the edge of the clif and is meant to be a resting spot with the beautiful view, we enjoy a perfect breakfast. The sun sets just behind the big rock, where the castle is located, although it is still cool outside. Adam plans to go hiking in these mountains for a few hours and leaves early.

I have another plan - enjoy my breakfast, have a cup of tea, chat with the French couple and then before it's really hot and busy walking to the castle situated on the other hill. There is no one at the entrance of the castle in the valley so today I can enter for free; the path is steep and sometimes there is a stone staircase.

There is one donkey available for taking tourist up the hill but later in the day there will be plenty to take, meanly Iranian tourist” up there. There is only one way up and this castle (like the other of the built castles in this region) is strategically an almost indestructible fortress. In spite of the fact that the Mongols almost ruiined every building they encounter in the country they left this castle in tact Although the castle is mostly in ruins you should recognize two gates, a stable, a mosque and water resources.

Via some wooden stairs you reach the highest point where you have a good view of both sides of this ridge. A thick woolen blanket of clouds cover the village and I can’t barely see the place where I’m staying. A little later it is clear and I can make a video and pictures of the surrounding villages on top of the other mountain and the valley This castle is part of a whole chain of castles built in the 12th century throughout the region. It was here that the Islamic sects of leader "Hasan-e Sabbah" sheltered. Many important people were kidnapped and killed.

The hostages were presented a future after their death in paradise with beautiful flowers and many divine virgins. Here comes the name "castles of the moorers" from. Hulage Khan was able to take most of these fortresses after diplomatic tricks – only the people from two castles hold on. Due to their perfect water system and supplies, a castle even lasted for 17 years. After that, the Mongols destroyed most of the castles aware of opportunity these would give to bandits and rebels.

Gazor-Khan-Iran-Mountains-Fog-Castle-Assasins

A henchman?

A henchman?

A French female joins me on top of het hill and both we enjoying the beautiful view. She has traveled a week with her guide in this part of Iran and has reported some remarkable things. Nobody knows if they are true but it's always fun; Khomeini would be born in India and used as a henchman by the real rulers during the Revolution in end of the seventies.

Moellahs are not totally against the drugs that land through Afghanistan and Pakistan - the more people are addicted the better. Drug addicts are not able to rebel. In fact Iran is ruled by 12 old guys and the majority of the Iranian people are fed up by the conservatice way of living.

The situation can change here in Iran in a split second. At the Babak castle in the north where the Muslims were defeated in the past, hundreds of thousands of Iranians gathered a few years ago, to “demonstrate” against the regime. The rulers have stopped this phenomenon immediately afraid that it would turn into a national rebelday against them.

Dunsterforce (1917-1919):

Put together during WWI in 1917, Dunsterforce was a Allied Military Mission of around 2500 Australian, New Zealand, British and Canadian troops; soldiers and armored cars taken back from Iraq and the western front.

They were dropped at the Caspian Sea coast in Iran at Bandar-Anzali near the big city "Rasht". Their task was to gather information, train local troops and counteract German propaganda.

Later, these soldiers were deployed to protect the oil fields of the city of Baku in Azerdbijan. These fields were threatened by Turkish soldiers from the Ottoman Empire, who surrounded quickly the Allied troops. Later, in September 1918 they pulled back. A Soviet employee would claim that this group of soldiers was deployed, under the pretext of defending "British India" and try to get grip to the Caucasus countries.

The troops would then try to get rid of the Russians in Baku Soviet to control the rich oil fields in the area, the Caspian Sea and all the surrounding regions. He claimed that the deputy general Dunsterville (named after the operation) had forty cars full of gold and silver to pay off everybody and make this operation succesfull.

A moment later Adam returns from his long walk and we order "dizzi" for lunch. This meal is put on a large silver bowl and consist of two clay pots with the "dizzi", the same kind of flat bread bread we had this morning and a small bowl of some kind of green sauce. We also get two empty bowls. How do we eat this? The man shows it - he poors the watery portion from the clay pot into the bowl and then breaks a large portion of the bread above it into portions.

This is what you eat first as a kind of soup. Then grab the stick and squeeze the rest of the rest in the clay pot (beans, meat, potato, etc.) and mix it with the sauce and just eat it or eat bread. Later on we're again invited by another Irianian family and we talk about the things we discussed already so often in Iran - they want to know where we're from, which site we like the best and if we're not afraid to come to their country.

After the tea we thank our hosts and walk back to our room. Tomorrow I have to go back to the hussle and bussle of Tehran.

TIps & advice (2014)

Gazor Khan - Quazvin: You can take a shared taxi (4 persons) for 150,000 IRR pp. The ride takes about 2 hours. I got off at the Minodar Quazvin roundabout - here you can take a taxi to the bus station if you want (2 km) in Quazvin town where from there you can go anywhere.

If you ask me you can only go anywhere (from Gazor Khan) via the city of Quazvin. I don’t think there’s any other public transport than a shared taxi. Try to share the taxi with locals otherwise the driver is going to ask you much more

money than the real price.

Name: Hotel Golestan

Address: Near the entrance of Alamut castle

Price: 500,000 (double)

Phone nr. : 3773312

Content:

A little further situated than the entrance of Alamut castle, in a place with a beautiful view over the same entrance and the castle is this simple hotel. I have seen four rooms but I suppose there must be more. A dormitory is not there but it’s possible to stay with more people in the room where we stayed. I think the owner calls these "suites". There is a hot shower (in a very large room), a kitchenette (not too clean) and inside on a wooden floor there are enough thin mattresses and clothes to sleep with a few people.

There is a small restaurant next to where you can order simple Iranian meals. For the rooms there are some plastic chairs and a daybed. WIFI is not there (I know nowhere in the mountain village). But the light works, electrics too.

SPEND TIME:

In principle, one day is enough to see the castle and the village and enjoy some time on a terrace and the beautiful views. If you want to go for a day walk, you can easily add a day to it. There is a lot to do, but you can rest here perfectly, enjoy the peace and quiet (this does not apply for weekends and holidays) and breathe in fresh air.