Matheran

I first traveled by train from the large CST station in Mumbai (Bombay) via Neral to Matheran where I traveled the last part with the so-called toy train.

Located on the Sahyadris ridge, this is a typical hill station with a beautiful drive through the Indian landscape. It was still morning when I arrived in the high dusty place where a thick layer of fog lay over it.

Arriving at the peace-loving station, the first thing you notice is that it is so quiet here. There is no motorized traffic here which creates an oasis of peace. Strange actually that it is pretty dull here. But more perhaps it is even more striking that, in addition to a ban on cars and scooters, no bicycles are permitted here.

The only transport is that of horse and wagon and hand-drawn rickshaws. This is more reminiscent of Medieval India than a 20th century city near the metropolis of Mumbai. My shoes are orange within a minute due to the dusty path that I walk towards a hostel near the train station.

While I order a curry at a local eatery, I look at the many Indian tourists who arrive with gigantic loads of suitcases to stay here for a few days. I book the train for tomorrow back and then prepare for a walk. This is for me not the real India I’m here to see.  

The town is known for its many beautiful viewpoints and I start a walk through the dusty dry woods that give at least some shade. I first “glide” to the Panorama point. The panorama I see here is nice but is a bit obstructed by the amount of smog and mist. For me, the people I meet are more interesting. Older people lag behind "people" rickshaws and seeing a big difference in social class.

I decide to ride back on a horse; unfortunately it is a lot more lucrative for the man to go as quick as possible so he can take more people on top of the horse. We only return to the village in a trot. Before dinner I walk to the Echo point. The next day I would return to the real madness of India and Matheran would look more like a dream, a film set, something of the past.