It was a long ride by bus from Janski to Khajuraho and I am happy to conclude that I do not have to take a minibus, risksja or long walk ahead to get to a hostel. The bus station is less than a kilometer from the strip with hostels and restaurants that I have in mind to stay. Before I go, I check the bus times for tomorrow and then walk to my intended hostel. Wonderful to notice that the city is as good as car-free.
What a blessing after staying in Delhi and Agra. I check in and eat a bite of lunch in one of the many restaurants here. It is still early and since the temples are actually next to my hostel I decide to go here immediately and check them out.
The temples of Khajuraho are divided into three groups; the western ones are the main and most popular ones, but also to the east of the old city there is a group while there are also a number of temples in the south. It is certain that the temples were built during the Chandela dynasty that ruled between the years 950 and 1050 AD.
There would once be 85 temples to admire - now there are 25 left. But how and perhaps more importantly; why did these people build so many temples in a place that actually had no (strategic) value? Where did they get so many workers to build this gigantic complex in less than 100 years? And why so much sex? Maybe it's good that "we" still have questions to ask.
It is clear that the temples that did survive earned this due mainly to this location with it’s insignificant and unimportant place. When the Afghans threatened the city, the Chandelas left Khajuraho and exchanged them for their safe forts. The temples were falling into pieces and would be overgrown by the jungle when they were noticed by a passing Englishman who was shocked wildly by the beautifully carved temples with their erotic charge.
I pay the $ 5 entrance while I thank all guides that ask if they can take me around; there seems to be a lot of people walking around here who want to take advantage of tourists. The temples on the western side seem to be the most impressive and since I have seen enough temples during this trip (and certainly in India alone) I decide to do this thoroughly but also leave it by that.
It is clear to me that I have to walk along the buildings with my right shoulder to make no one angry. The left seems to be holy I’ve read somewhere before I came in Khajuraho. It almost turns out to be an impossible task since by the looks of one temple your thoughts go to completely different things than prescriptions.
It is a beautiful lively Kama Sutra show in stone - you almost forget how artful all this is and I do not aim at the agility of the people you see pictured. Beautifully detailed you get a picture of what is all possible if you put you’re mind to it. Holy nymphs, dancing angels with large breasts and earthly women in countless orgies come to their enjoyment. But there are also soldiers to see; the Chandelas fought - if they did not try out new positions - apparently they had also enough wars with their neighbors. The more than 30 meters large Kandariya-Mahadev is the largest temple in the city and must be the highlight of the Chandela architecture. This was built at the end of the dynasty.
It is hot in India but this makes you blush; on my round in the complex I met a number of people who I also saw at the hostel. We all want to tell our story about what we have seen and decide to meet after. We all have a cold shower in our seperate rooms and meet again on the roof of our hostel for a bite to eat. From watching erotic scenes you get a terrible appetite. It turns out that the whole group wants to leave tomorrow to wherever I want to go - Varanasi - and because it is cozy we order a number of ice cold beers and enjoy the view and we’re trying to travel together further to the north.
Khajuraho's airport is located 5 km south of the city. The nearest train station is in Janshi (5 hours bussing away) but you can book trains in the reservation office next to the bus station in Khajuraho. This can be found in the south of the center. Renting a bike is a priority here. Costs are maybe 20 Rs per day.
Khajuraho - Satna - Varanasi: there would be 3 buses a day (3.5 hours - 58 Rs) but there is a chance that it will not come at all. Then you can arrange a jeep that takes 2.5 hours. At 19:45 there is a train from Satna to Varanasi (arrival 05:30).
Price: 50 Rs (single)
Phone nr. : 274158
Content:
Popular Yogi is in the middle of everything; the western group of temples, the information center and next to restaurants, the market (bazaar), shops and other hostels. The rooms are spacious but basic (some have a toilet); the more expensive have TV and air conditioning. Most therefore have a "bucket shower".
On the roof is a nice and good restaurant with reasonable view. Yoga classes are given.
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