Hampi

Places of Interest - India

introduction

Hampi is a village in the Indian state of Karnataka, where there is a large collection of ruins nearby. The name of the village is taken from Hampanna, one of the names of Parvati, the husband of the God “Shiva”. The ruins are the remains of the 15th century city Vijayanagar, the capital of the Vijayanagar empire. In addition to these old, often decayed buildings, you find yourself in a world of banana plantations, large boulders and mustard-green rice-fields.

Since Hampi has known a good portion of tourism over the years, the village is fully equipped. Nonetheless, it has managed to maintain its relaxed atmosphere. The site has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Excavations are still being made by the Archeological Survey of India and, among others, UNESCO.

highlights

There are dozens of temples and other buildings on the immense complex of Hampi. Here are the most important ones:

Hampi bazaar

One of the oldest temples of Hampi is the Virupaksha or Pampavathi temple dating from the 15th century. It is therefore older than the Vijayanagara Kingdom and includes images in honor of the Gods of Shiva and Pampa.

The entrance to the building contains a tower of no less than 50 meters high, the highest around and is therefore not to be missed. This temple is still actively used. With a little luck Lakshmi, the temple elephant, is present to wish you a happy life.

Nearby you can walk up the Hemakuta hill to get a beautiful view of the bazaar and its surroundings. Also on the “smooth” stone-plates of the hill there are some ruins of (Jain) temples.

If you walk in the direction of Vitalla (see below) and turn right you come to the Sule bazaar. A terrain that is often completely deserted, which is something like a Roman market complex. Pillars on both sides with a stone courtyard. At the end of the complex is the Achyutaraya temple.

Vitall temple (complex)

This is probably the most popular and well-known temple complex of the whole Hampi ruins-area. One of the most famous parts of the temple is the iconic stone chariot in the middle of the site. You can also see the mythical music pillars; the British who did not believe in this legend cut a pillar in two pieces to see where the music came from.

They only saw a hollow space and didn’t understand. The beautifully preserved complex was built in the 16th century. In the evening the entire temple is illuminated, giving the unique architecture an extra dimension during the sunset.

You can come here by taking the wide sandy path and walking about 2 km. The road to the temple was used as a horse market in ancient times. You can still see the ruins of the market on both sides of the road. In the temple itself you can recognize images of Persian horse sellers.

Royal complex

This part of the Hampi complex looks very different because the stones are often used for building the temples.

Here you can see, among other things, the Zenana fence and the elephant stables. In this last complex is also the beautifully decorated lotus temple that is built in a mix of Hindu and Islamic styles.

The stable itself is a complex of domes above the royal elephants. A little further you can see the underground Shiva Viruspaksha temple but also take a look at the baths of the Queen.

Anegundi

Just north of the river you can visit the ruins of the fortified fortress of Anegundi. These structures are older than those in Hampi and contain a magical place where (still) few other (Western) tourists come. The entire wall is still standing and you can also visit a number of temples on your own.

One is on top of the Anjanadri hill and is called Hanuman; watch out for the many stray monkeys that "attack" non-prudent tourists.

Hampi-Karnataka-Ruins-India-River-Rocks-Stables

history

The first historical settlements around Hampi dates from the 1st century BC although some historians have doubts about this. In 1336 the city Vijayanagar was founded and grew so quickly in the following centuries that it became one of the largest Hindu kingdoms in Indian history. In the 16th century, about half a million people lived here in an area of 650 km2 and were protected by seven rows of fortifications.

There was trade and the busy bazaars were the center of international trade. Yet, in the mid-century, this ended with a war among a number of sultans from outside. The very central city was totally destroyed by the Muslim attackers. Now a whole other war is being fought out; that between the current inhabitants of this immense area and the people who want to protect the ruins.

Despite the fact that the area ended up on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1986, only 58 of the 550 monuments are on the exact list.

tips & advice (2008)

There is a dusty field near the bazaar where the buses arrive and depart from. There seem to be buses going to other places than Hospet but I would not gamble on it. The buses to Hospet go every half hour and take about 30 minutes. Price is 10 Rupee.

Hampi - Hospet - GOA: buses go directly from Hospet (see above) to Goa (Panaji). From November to March (high season) you can book a night bus (sleeper) for 580 Rupees. This trip is very popular so make a reservation.

Of course you have plenty of eateries in the center (the long dusty street) of Hampi. I myself have often opted for a meal in my hostel (see below); you can ask if they turn on the tandoori grill but the "normal" food on the menu is just as good.

One afternoon I went with some people to the Mango tree - located in the middle of a banana plantation here hangs an atmosphere as if there were no problems in the world. Wonderful to spend an afternoon.

TIP: bring your book.

Name: Hostel Goutami

Address: Virupapur Gaddi

Price: 250 R

Content:

To reach this hostel you will first have to cross the river just behind Hampi bazaar. There is a strip of land between a dusty footpath and the river where a number of hostels are located. It is a lot quieter and more relaxed than in the village on the other side and that is no different at this hostel.

A large complex with small huts with thatched roofs and mosquito nets. There is a large restaurant that also serves as a public relax area. There are some chairs and tables but it is largely "filled" with mattresses on the floor with small tables in between.

You can eat here (breakfast, lunch and dinner). A table serves as a reception. The staff is super. The cabins have their own toilet and shower and are fine. You have a double bed.

Going to Hampi is highly recommended; it is touristy and it can get very crowded. On the other hand, you can choose your own route through the ruiins over the many goat paths that are there. Go early in the morning and late in the afternoon but think about the boats (ferries) that do not return (afterwards) after dark.

The area is quite large and it is possible to avoid the big crowds at the popular attractions. One of the nicest things is to take a boat (a half egg) to the other side - an experience in itself.

You can buy a combi ticket for 5 dollars for the Vitalla temple, the Zenana fence and the elephant stables. At the small Archaeological Museum you can buy a booklet with a map. This is also a great starting point for the viewing.

Hampi-Karnataka-Ruins-India-River-Rocks-Boulders