Tikal (and Flores)

Places of Interest - Guatemala

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introduction

El Peten in northern Guatemala is by far the largest region in the country. It is known for its many archaeological sites and is a vast, sparsely populated area filled with many jungle and nature parks. One of the biggest tourist-attraction is the old Maya site of Tikal. Tikal was one of the largest cities of the Maya during the Classic Period. It was not until 1848 that it was rediscovered by a team of Guatemalan explorers.

Biggest difference with all other major Maya sites is that it lies in the middle of the jungle. High pyramid-like temples, big forest giants and the sound of howler monkeys and frogs will be your part if you visit this mysterious mythical site. In addition, it was built together with Calakmul in Belize in the Mayan architecture Petén style. Tours to the archaeological site can be arranged in the nearby tourist town of Flores, among other places.

Together with Santa Elena and the smaller San Benito, Flores forms a small conglomerate around and in the lake of Peten Itza. Especially Flores with its Mediterranean atmosphere as a peninsula attracts many tourists. It has both an old and a more modern part. Santa Elena is the transport hub of the three with the airport and bus station but also the basis for shopping and arranging banking affairs etc.

highlights

Flores:

The oldest part of Flores is located on an pensinsula in Lake Petén Itzá which is connected to the mainland via a dike. The town was founded by the Itza Indians who were chased away from their "old" site at Chichen Itza in Mexico.

Then the city was still called Tayasal. It is certain that the Indians living in and around the lake knew about the big Tikal; it is even probable that they regularly made the trip to offer sacrifices and pray there. The island was the last Maya state that remained independent during the conquest by the Spaniards. Hernán Cortés on his way to Honduras, passed the lake in 1541 but made no attempt to conquer the city.

The Spaniards only came back in 1697 when they took the city and destroyed all temples, pyramids and images. For that reason there are no remains of the original inhabitants but it is certain that the old city is built on top of the new one and you are on "holy" Maya grounds. If you are interested in items found here you can go to the "Museo Santa Barbara" located on a small island west of Flores.

Tikal:

We now know that Tikal was known to the Spaniards who colonized the country, but it was not until 1848 that the city was "officially" rediscovered by archaeologists from Guatemala. The entire Parque National Tikal contains thousands of Mayan Ruins over its entire surface of some 550km2. The central part - declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979 - is about 16km in size and has around 4000 objects.

The main building of the Tikal complex is the pyramid of the Great Jaguar or Temple I built around the main square (Gran Plaza). This is built in the Petén style which is characterized by a steep cascading base with a smaller temple on top. The temple was built in the classical period around the year 730 AD. The tomb of this ruler was localized by archaeologists in the temple, although it is unclear whether the temple was built for this purpose or that it was a later adaptation.

The temple is about 44 meters high and divided over nine levels. At the foot, the temple measures only 30 by 34 meters. The main room is dedicated to Kukulcan, an important Maya God. The temple is characterized by a striking roof, a typical feature of the Mayan architecture. Climbing on this temple is forbidden but you can view it well from Temple II which is located opposite the temple of the Great Jaguar. Acropolis del Norte where relics are found from the year 600 BC is not far.

About the place we call Acropolis Central are different scenarios possible; whether this was the place where the nobility lived or the place were ceremonies and sacrifices were made for the Gods. There are a number of small temples with courtyards and small rooms. Temple V is 58 meters high and was built between the 7th and 8th century. From the top you have a beautiful view over the entire central part of Tikal. The lost world (El Mundo Perdido) is a complex with no less than 38 objects - in the middle is a large pyramid with a large stone staircase on both sides.

Built in the 7th century BC this is the oldest structure of Tikal. At complex N (in the extreme west of the complex) is one of the most beautiful tombs of Tikal while Temple IV is the literally highest with 65 meters height. Other buildings include the temple of "Inscriptions" (Temple VI), the northern complex and square of the seven temples.

history

The archaeological site Tikal was founded by the Maya Indians around the 7th century BC. The hill provided a good strategic location and the present flint (fire-stone) for making weapons and later religious images. At the beginning of the Classic period (about 250 BC) Tikal (then Yax Mutal) was already a very important cultural, religious but also commercial site with numerous temples.

In the 4th century, the king adopted attack methods that involved encircling the enemy in order to kill them at a distance with spears. The empire expanded over the entire region and became the dominant tribe. In 562 the city was nevertheless subjected to Caracol, who had taken over the same (war) strategy from his enemy Tikal. A period of more than a hundred years occured that is known as the Tikalhiaat. Hardly any inscriptions or monuments are known from this "occupation period".

This period ended in 682 when the powerful Jasaw Chan K'awiil I came to power. He made Tikal an unprecedented power center. Tikal's power reached its peak when in 711 it got its eternal rival Calakmul on its knees. His descendants would be responsible for the large temples that we see on the site today. However, the ongoing war between the two warring factions and their allies had led to a depletion of raw materials and neglect of the ground, so that after eight hundred the Mayan civilization collapsed.

The last inscription in Tikal, a reference to Jasaw Chan K'awiil II, dates from 889.

tips & advice (2007)

Mundo Maya International Airport (or Peten) is located in the eastern suburbs of Santa Elena, about 2 to 3 km from Flores. The bus station (Nuevo de Autobuses) is located about 1 km from the road to Flores on the south side of Santa Elena.

Flores/Santa Elena - Chetumal (MEXICO): the bus to Chetumal in Mexico goes through Belize City and takes about 8 hours. A bus will certainly leave at 05:00 in the morning. Costs are about 225Q.

If you get the chance (and dare) you can sleep near the Tikal ruins in your tent (Jaguar Inn) - the dormitories and rooms of this budget hostel are often reserved by tour groups so you do not have a big chance.

There are also more expensive hotels. Your best chance is to sleep in Santa Elena/Flores whereby the second (Flores) is a much nicer and more comfortable option. Santa Elena is a dusty busy city where you better not sleep or you need to sleep very close to the airport or bus station.

Many travelagencies in Flores can arrange a tour to Tikal. The tours include transportation, an English speaking guide and lunch. Prices vary but the lowest price for a very sober tour is about 110Q pp. Of course you can also travel to Tikal (you can also stay there) and possibly take a guide yourself through the visitor center there.

SUNRISE "tour":

You will have to get up early if you book a "Sunrise tour" to Tikal; you will be picked up at your hostel/hotel or meet the

rest of the group at the travel agency and leave directly to the approximately Tikal, 65 km north. There you will arrive not much later than 06:00 to enter the complex. You pay your own entrance fee (150Q) and walk behind the guide in pitch darkness to temple "IV" or "V" which you carefully climb up.

When you arrive at the top, you find a spot and enjoy the sounds of the animals that orchestrate dawn. At dusk you see the first pieces of jungle and temple while you suddenly see the sunrise. The dew vapores and you see the magical Maya complex looming calmly in front of you’re eyes. Then you climb down and visit a number of temples, buildings, squares and courtyards before you return to Flores at the end of the morning.

TIPS for going to Tikal:

There is a visitor center with a small shop and a restaurant on the Tikal site. You can also sleep here (there are a number of hostels, a campsite and a few expensive hotels). To visit the whole complex you need hours and since the temples occasionally are quite far apart you need good walking-shoes.

Especially in the rainy season the terrain can become "muddy" and slippery. Take into account about 8 to 12 km of walking. If you enter the complex before 07:00 you pay 100Q entrance for half a day. If you stay the night at the complex you can enter it at 05:00. Take plenty of water with you, but also something against the sun (an umbrella, headgear and / or sunburn) and snacks is not a luxury.

Other things you can do:

There are two museums at the Tikal complex; Museo Sylvanus G Morley which includes the afterlife stuff of a king, as well as a number of tomb columns, ceramic items, bones, etc. The second Museo Litico is situated in the visitor center. For both, you pay Q10 while for the first money it is included if you can show a "Tikal" ticket. Finally, you can also take a walk on a jungle walkway far above the trees. Entrance is 240Q.

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