Rio Dulce and Livingstone

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The Caribbean coast is a part of Guatemala that is very different from the rest of the country. Palm trees, sandy beaches, jungle and swampy nature parks and people (inhabitants) that do not reside anywhere else in the country. The Dulce is a river of 43 kilometers in the Izabal department of Guatemala. The river flows from Lake Izabal to the Gulf of Honduras (Caribbean Sea). The Dulce ends at the village of Livingston in the Gulf of Honduras and passes Rio Dulce, the transport hub at the important bridge over the river.

This town is still called Frontera as the border and as end of the world. A boat trip from the first to the second is a must-see in the region and Livingstone also has a special place in Guatemala. Here live the "Garifuna" people who are a mix between stranded African slaves and the ethnic Carib Indians. They speak a different dialect and live along the entire Caribbean coast here.

In Rio Dulce it is interesting to visit and view the old castle on the river by boat or by foot, built to scare away the pirates.

Rio Dulce has no bus station, buses stop on both sides of the bridge over the river Dulce. Bus companies El Fuente del Norte and Litegua have bus offices opposite each other. The main pick-up point for boats (including Livingstone) is opposite the main road to Bruno's hostel.

Rio Dulce - Livingstone: there are countless boats towards Livingstone. Fixed departure times from Rio Dulce are 09:30 and 13:30 while the trip takes 1.5 hours. In between there are numerous (unofficial) boats. There is certainly a boat back to Rio Dulce at 13:30 from Livingstone. Besides the boat you can also take a (mini) van; a single ticket costs about 125Q. This leaves from the new "dock" but be prepared for many stops.

Rio Dulce - Santa Elena/Flores: there are several bus companies that go to Santa Elena (or Flores). The journey should take about 4 hours and the costs are about 60Q but there are also bus companies that charge 100Q. There is certainly a bus at 08:00 in the morning. For a minibus ("Otitrans") you pay almost 300Q, but then you are a lot faster.

• ATTENTION: the bridge is 3.5 km long; Pay attention to where you get off because you have no protection against the sun here and it can be a very sweaty 30 minute walk.
• ATTENTION: always ask first the price for a boat trip before you get in.

NOTE: Shop around before you buy a bus ticket to Santa Elena (Flores); prices, quality and duration differ considerably.

Almost every hostel/hotel in Rio Dulce has its own restaurant. Bruno's is known for its good quality breakfast service.

If you go to Livingstone you should definitely try the guifiti. This is a mix of coconut rum with herbs and is a local delicacy. It would contain medical magic.

• Name: Bruno's (Rio Dulce)

Address: Rio Dulce (village)

Price: Q35 (dormitory)

Phone nr. : 7930 5721

Website: www.mayaparadise.com/bruno

Content:

This hostel is located near the bridge in Rio Dulce and is fully equipped. There are spacious, comfortable dorms but also "singles" and "doubles" some with large balconies and air conditioning and/or a view of the river.

On the terrain which is perfect for people who want to leave early with a boat and/or bus is a good restaurant and a swimming pool. You can also enjoy an ice cold beer on the terrace.

• Name: Casa Perico (on the riverside)

Address: On the river not far from Rio Dulce

Price: Q45 (dormitory)

Phone nr. : 7930 5666

Content:

Hostel Casa Perico is located in the middle of the jungle about 200 meters from the big river. It is a complex built literally on the water with a magical atmosphere. The he wooden buildings are all built on wooden platforms about one meter above the water under the jungle leaves and the high vegetation. You can take a bungalow but also sleep in a dormitory or "single".

There is a buffet supper offered but there is also a menu that is offered in the joint central cozy building. You can exchange books here but also hang in your hammock and enjoy the wonderful atmosphere that hangs here. Finally, Casa Perico has a wide range of tours and information about the region. You can call for a pick-up service from Rio Dulce.

The websites www.mayaparadise.com and www.riodulcechisme.com give you a lot of information about the region and its population.

NOTE: especially in Livingstone it is wise to stay on guard. Besides the fact that the city is often used as a drug transit port, there are also known cases of "robberies" on tourists in dark Streets late at night.