Kutaisi

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introduction

It’s ten o'clock in the morning as I walk through the heat over the bridge towards the Bagrati cathedral that was built on top of the hill of the city of Kutaisi. The building is white with green domes and was built in the 11th century when a large citadel with palace was built here.

David the Builder, the union of East and West Georgia, was responsible for this, but in 1692 a Turkish bomb exploded and the dome fell down. Now you can see a fairly modern church that is beautiful to see but not really spectaculair.

I walk back to the center and walk along a terrace on the water - there are some men in the shade, in the breeze drinking a beer and I can not resist the temptation. I also order a beer and watch a lame man sitting on a wall - he has a 10 by 15 cm copy of Stalin hanging around his neck and is begging. I wonder what would have happened if he would sit in the West on a bench.

The cozy center

You will not notice it immediately if you walk around but Kutaisi is one of the oldest settlements on the globe - life started here some 4000 years ago. It was here that "David the Builder" as King was crowned in the year 1089 and it was the capital of the West of the country until 1122 to that same king cleared Tbilisi from the Arabs and the seat removed again.

But when the Mongolians and Timur (or Tamerlane) again occupied Tbilisi, Kutaisi was again given the role of capital. The city was to be occupied by the Turks for about 100 years when in 1770 the Georgians, together with the Russians, chased away the Ottomans for good. I walk right through the lively and cozy center and arrive in the main park which lies in the heart of the city; it is full of gigantic high and large trees, flowers and benches and it’s busy.

Many children, parents and many other people enjoy sitting and lying down on the benches. The "kids" may crosses in a car, there are some stalls and you can relax on the terrace what I intend to do. There are also some gypsies walking around begging but it’s not annoying. Perfect weather, perfect place and delicious cold beer - what more could a man want? Back in the hostel delicious dinner is served at the hostel around half past eight - it is "kupati" (sausages) or "kebabi" (kebab) in a delicious spicy sauce, but also things that I've tasted before.

Chacha and Georgian wine

After diner the owner of the house (hostel) can start with his "one man show". First we all get a "normal" glass of wine poured and there is a toast. Because we are with five other tourist and the owners we all get a traditional Georgian glass.

The elderly owner, he must be 70 does several tricks and after every “trick” we have to drink the little glass with “chacha”. Also the wine goes fast. Luckily there is also water on the table and I quickly drink a large glass while "Midori" (the Japanese girl) is now being taken on the dance floor.

At nine o'clock the show is over and we drink a few glases more, talk a bit to the owners and to each other and then we go one by one back to the dormitory. I plop down on my bed which is just too short and quickly sink into deep dreams.

tips & advice (2014)

A "circular" bus (no. 1) runs through the city - it goes from the main road near the bus station (it is not really a station) to the center and back. Cost: 0.30 Gel.

Kutaisi - Mestia: at 10:00 a bus will go to "Mestia" from the bus station in Kutaisi. Costs are 25 Gel. The bus arrives at 14:30.

Kutaisi - Akhaltsikhe: also from the bus station there are minibuses to Akhaltsikhe - the ride takes about 4 hours and costs 12 Gel.

In the center (near the large park) are numerous restaurants and terraces. If you really want to eat "Georgian" you can go to the Zeddazini - in a street behind the main street. But eating at the hostel below is recommended.

Name: Gvetadze homestay

Address: Tbilisi 3rd Lane Nr. 6

Price: 15 Gel (dormitory)

Phone nr. : 43007

Content:

From the central moedani square it is about 700 meters walk through the Tbilisi street and then it is the third sidestreet left (opposite Tbilis nr 100). It is a very friendly and familial event with a kitchen that is actually only used by the family and a small living room. The son Warden speaks fluent English, the parents "Suliko" and "Mediko" a bit. For 15 Gel more you get a fantastic dinner and a very large breakfast.

There are several rooms available; I myself slept in the large dormitory where cash cool water is served at the round table in the corner. The beds have poor suspension and are due for replacement and the neighbor's dog should get a silence ban at night. In the future you can perhaps sit on the roof terrace - now it is too hot. There is a TV and WIFI. There is only one shower/toilet and there seems to be no water every now and then.

I found it annoying that people want to constantly get you to "sights". The "one-man show" in the evening at dinner starts to become legendary - Suliko tries to make everybody happy and drunk with wine and chacha.

Kutaisi-Georgia-Square-Bagrati-Cathedral