David Gareja (and Sighnaghi)(Kakheti)

Places of Interest - Georgia


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introduction


Kakheti is the eastern region of Georgia and known for its wine. Every village seems to have its own brand. Although Telavi is the capital of the region, the beautifully situated "Sighnaghi" and the monastery complex "David Gareja" is much more known and more impressive. The province "Kakheti" was always an independent or partly independent Kingdom for long periods. Sighnaghi lies in the extreme east of Kakheti and is one of the smallest but most beautiful villages in the country.

 

Beautifully situated on a rock you imagine yourself in Italy, Greece or the Balkans than in Georgia. The village has two churches, a largely intact city wall and an interesting monastery. Most houses are built between the 17th to the 19th century. Signahgi is also sometimes called the "love city" of Georgia probably because of its romantic location and atmosphere.

 

Finally there is the remarkable David Gareja monastery complex with about fifteen monasteries of which two are now inhabited. In the past often destroyed and overtaken by several foreign armies - now actively inhabited by 10 monks. On a day trip from the capital of this region you can see the caves and walk a circuit in the bare desert-like area.


highlights


Sighnaghi:

The village Sighnaghi is considered the most beautiful but also romantic village of Georgia and many tourists come for a day or longer to this town which lay in the eastern part of the region.

 

The city itself, but also the area around it, has been protected by law since 1975. In addition to the many wine shops and tastings, a large part of the 4 km long city wall is still standing.

 

There are six city gates and 32 towers, some of which can be visited. Not so strange that the name Sighnaghi derives from the Turkish word siginak which means protection. In the almost Italian village two churches are present, a cozy town square and 2 km away is the Bodbe monastery. From here you have a beautiful view of the village. 


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Monastic complex David Gareja:

The David Garedzja monastery is located in the southeast of Georgia in a very unusually semi desert-like area. The entire complex consists of 15 monasteries, the largest of which are Lavra and Udabno. Sadly neglected in Soviet times, now there are 10 monks living in the first monastery mentioned. It is a rock-hewn Georgian-orthodox complex on the slopes of Mount Gareja.

 

The complex contains of hundreds of churches, chapels, refters and living quarters in the hollowed out rock wall. The monastery was founded in the 6th century in the cave where a white cross now stands. Part of the complex is located a bit further in the Agstafa district of Azerbaijan. You can see the 18th century watchtower, visit the spring called "David's tears" and the Udabno caves that lie next to the border with Azerdbeijan. The monasteries were destroyed by the Mongols in 1265 and rebuilt.

 

 

They were destroyed again by Timur or Tamerlane and in the year 1615 they were swept from the earth by the Persians when 6,000 monks were killed and all their belongings were destroyed. During Soviet times the area was used for military exercises - demonstrations followed by the population as this was seen as a lack of respect. Ironically, after the independence, the Georgian army practiced exactly in the same place.


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history


From the end of the 8th century, the Kakheti region had an independent administration. After a brief incorporation into a united Georgian kingdom in the 11th century, it became a real part of the country in the 12th century. King David the Builder annexed the region. From the beginning of the 16th century, Kakheti came under the control of the Persians with the adjacent Kartli.

 

In 1616, the Persian leader Shah Abbas deported hundreds of thousands of ethnic Kakheti Georgians to Iran and destroyed the entire region. About one hundred and fifty years later it became part of the Georgian Kingdom "Kartli" again. In 1801 the region was annexed in the Tsarist Russian Empire. In 1762 the then King of Georgia sponsored the construction of the village Sighnaghi and had a fort built around it to protect the houses and surroundings against mainly tribes from Dagestan.

 

The village was mainly inhabited by merchants, workers and 100 families. During the Caucasus war the city was an important link because of its strategic location near Russian Dagestan. Under the rule of the Soviet Union, the city grew in size and became an important agricultural area. Now the hamlet lives mainly have tourism and wine sales.


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tips & advice (2014)


Sighnaghi - Tbilisi: at 9 o'clock in the morning (to my knowledge every two hours) a marshrutka leaves for the capital - the journey takes 3 hours and costs 6 Gel.

 

Tiblisi - David Gareji monastery: because there is no public transport to this monastery complex you are obliged to hitchhike (is very far from the first town, about 50 km) or take a tour from Tblisi.

 

Every day at 11 a.m. the Gareji line bus leaves the car park at the information center. Ticket you buy in the bus (25 Gel all inclusive) and at 19:00 you come back again. Included is the outbound and return ticket. The monastery complex is freely accessible. You arrive around 13:00, you leave around 15:30 and you stay for an hour in the Hamlet Udobna where you can drink and/or eat something in a cafe.


  • Name: Family (David Zandarashvili) hostel

Address: 11 st. Giorgi str.

Price: 15 Gel (single)

Phone nr. : +995 599 75 05 10 / +995 577 75 25 10

Email: davidzandarashvili@yahoo.com

 

Content:

This family hostel is located just outside the small center but within walking distance of the old city wall, near one of the gates, and also the center and bus station are not far. The hostel has several rooms spread over the whole house - I myself slept in one of the three cellar rooms that may not be known for its coziness (only two single beds) but it was nice and cool (temperature).

 

There is a dining room where you have a beautiful view over the valley and the city wall, but the family also lives here. You can get free tea and coffee though it was not really appreciated if you used the fridge in the kitchen. There is WIFI. I paid 5 Gel for the laundry, 15 for dinner (for me a bit pricey - it was a lot but quality was slightly less than I had elsewhere) and 5 you get breakfast.

 

The family was friendly but sometimes it seemed like it was more for the money I had the feeling. You will be picked up at the bus station by another - third brother.


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