Harar

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Harar is very different of all the other sights in Ethiopia. Located in the east of the country it was once an independent city state and a very important trading place between Asia, the Middle East and Africa. From 1520 it is a Muslim city with a large market and an intact city wall. It was not until 1887 that the (Muslim) city had to surrender to the then Ethiopian emperor Menelik.

Despite this, Harar and his people keep their own identity, language, customs and habits. Known for its typical architecture, ancient gates, winding narrow streets and within house decorations and style Harar is more a city that belongs in the Middle East or North Africa than in the horn of Africa. The city is considered by the Muslims as the fourth holy city next to Mecca, Jerusalem and Meddina.

Feeding hyena

Based on a fairly recent phenomenon, in the 1950s hyenas were lured into the city to feed them afterwards. Legend has it that it was actually a much older habit to feed them in the hope that these big hunters would be prevented to attack their herds of sheep or other domestic animals.

After sunset, the animals are called by name one by one repeatledly. Then suddenly appears a silhouette in the street, actually in the middle of the city while the straydogs know this and disappear and hide. When they are with a group they come closer while the hyena-man try to keep them relaxed. Then he will comfort them and start to prepare the food. Then the hyenas are fed one by one, sometimes with a stick with some meat on the end.

The hyena’s come really close and even tourist can try it. 

The small bus station is in the center of the city and is pretty chaotic.

Harrar - Addis Ababa: 158 Birr, one-way ticket, 05:30 departure - about 10 hours (local bus). There seem to be two buses a day.

TIP: Pay attention to the number of the bus when you buy a ticket - in the morning at 05:00 the number is always visible so you can get on the right bus.

Fresh Touch restaurant: great restaurant where you can order an excellent pizza for 45 Birr. It is a bit upmarket and

touristy but a lovely outside terrace and fast and friendly staff.

Be sure to have a cup of coffee when you're here in Harrar - it's suggested that coffee from Harar is the best / tastiest

in the world (even though it's hard to argue about taste)

• Name: Hotel Tana

Address: Along the main road towards Addis Ababa

Price: 92 Birr (including hot shower and toilet)

Phone nr. : 0256668482

Content:

The hotel is somewhat far from the center - but that is the only drawback. Rooms are fine - there is really hot water and a good jet too. It is quiet (my room was on the side of the large parking lot in front of the hotel). You might be better off talking about a "motel" because that’s what it looks like.

Fill a bucket with water because there may be days when no water comes out of the tap (due t water-shortage).