Axum

Places of Interest - Ethiopia


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introduction


In the northeast of Ethiopia lies the city of Axum, which was once the center of the kingdom of Axum and is the oldest civilization in the country. Questions arise whether this mysterious and mythical city was once the capital of the Queen of Sheba in the 10th century BC. What is certain is that in the year 400 BC the city had a high degree of civilization and that there was a lot of trade with merchants from Europe (the Romans and Greeks), the Middle East (including Egypt), Africa and Asia. The most remarkable remains of that time are the gigantic obelisks, 23 meters high. One was stolen by Mussolini in the last century, but returned in 2003 and restored. 

 

Besides the fact that the city is archaeologically unique, Axum is also the most sacred city of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. According to tradition, the Ark of the Covenant is located in the St. Mary or Sion church - the coffin that Moses delivered from Mount Sinai and which contained the Ten Commandments. Unfortunately, we as a layman are not allowed to look inside and the question is whether this is true.

 

Many Ethiopian monarchs were also crowned here. In the 4th century, the then king of Aksum proclaimed Christianity as a state religion. This made the city the first Christian kingdom, and after the Roman Empire, the largest in the world. Besides the obelisks and the church there are old royal tombs, remains of palaces, stones with mysterious inscriptions and a museum. It is said that only about 2% of the archaeological and religious treasures of the city have been exposed; in spite of this, the city has been included on the UNESCO list since 1980.


highlights


Obelisks:

While pyramids were built in Egypt, in and around Axum hundreds of obelisks were erected: high, flat, freestanding square columns that end in a spire that resemble totem-poles. Obelisks are made in one piece, made of granite and sometimes beautifully decorated. They marked the graves and monuments of important people. On the obelisk is indicated, in different stages, how many people are buried in a tomb.

 

These so-called 'killing houses' were related to a death cult, about which no information is known. At the foot of some obelisks there is another sacrificial stone. Archaeologists assume that they used elephants, rollers and winches to transport the stone and put it on its side. In the "Northern Stelae Park" the largest number of obelisks with King Ezana's Stele stands as the central point, 21 meters high. The largest obelisk still standing is the 24 meter high Obelisk of Axum.

 

In 1937, the 24-meter-high obelisk was transported to Rome under the command of Mussolini. In 2004 he was returned to Ethiopia, and in 2008 returned to the original place.


The church of the Holy Mary of Zion

This old church (and also monastery) is built on the foundations of an Aksumite temple. Next to the church is a new church of the same name that is continuously guarded. The legend is that in a chapel of the church the 'Ark of the Covenant' is kept. In Judaism this was the most holy object.

 

It was a portable, gold-covered box containing the two stone tablets that Moses would have received from God. The Ten Commandments were preserved on these two tablets. A collective name for ten rules of life that, according to Judaism, Christianity and Islam, is imposed on people by God.

 

You can’t enter the church unfortunately and it doesn’t look very impressive. Pay attention! Women may only enter the modern part of the church of Saint Mary of Zion. Their head and shoulders must be covered. 

 

Other attractions:

  • The Bath of Sheeba, Kaleb Palace and Gebre Maskal (2km outside the city), Azana park and Dungur (the Palace of Queen Sheeba).

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tips & advice (2012)


At the airport which is 7 km outside the city, stand often staff member of tourist hotels from the city – they offer you a free ride to their hotel (if you don’t like the hotel, you are free to leave it). The bus station is located near a large intersection in the opposite direction of the large "obelisk" site. It is a large dusty area with a number of large and minibuses.

 

Axum - Debark: first you have to go by bus to the city of Shire - the bus (1.5 hours - 20 Birr) or the minibus (1.5 hours - 25 Birr). The ride is about 260 kilometers to the west.


  • Name: The northern stele park

Price: Birr 50 (all-in ticket for many attractions in and around Axum - available at the information center - excl. the holy church of Zion)

 

Content:

This is the terrain with the three largest and most important axes of Axum (see highlights). It is within walking distance of the center and is located in a nice green park with several steles, tombs, a museum and a church. 

 

  • Name: The Church of the Holy Mary of Zion

Price: Birr 200 (not included in the all-in ticket)

Time: during lunch there are ecclesiastical services and tourists can not enter

 

Content:

This walled area is one of the holiest places for Christians on the planet. Several churches have stood on this spot since ancient times. First of all, there is the old church built by the founder of the city Gondor - emperor Fasilidas. This is a beautiful small church with beautiful wall drawings and paintings built in a nice architectual style. In addition,the primal new church that is much larger but not so interesting to see.

 

There is a small museum but the main thing is and remains the little chapel where the ark of the covenant would lie.


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  • Name: Hotel Africa

Price: 57 Birr single (excluding shower and toilet)

Phone nr. : 03477537000

Website: africaho@ethionet.et

 

Content:

In the large wide main street, Hotel Afrika is generally known as a hotel where most Western backpackers stay when they visit Axum. Most of the rooms are situated around an open courtyard where there is some greenery and what also functions as a parking lot.

 

There are also cheaper rooms which are not so good and are probably only meant for locals. The staff is friendly and helpful and speaks reasonable English. It is within walking distance of the sites and you can find several restaurants and cafes in the street. On the terrace in front of the street you can have a reasonably good breakfast and dinner.

 

TIPS:

- If you want the cheap room above, you have to ask questions (at first they give (white) tourists a more expensive room and do not tell the truth about these cheaper rooms.

- If you book a room pay attention to blood stains on your pillow and blankets / this may indicate bed beetles and or fleas.


The city of Axum often has to deal with a water shortage - in other words, you take measures always have a number of bottles of water with you (or in stock) and do not use too much if water comes out of the tap. 

 

You are constantly approached to take a guide (especially around the park) - pay attention, ask around and agree in advance on a fixed price.


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