Sierra Maestra National Park

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This national park is located in the two provinces Granma and the adjacent Santiago de Cuba and contains the highest peak of the country Pico Turquino (1972 meters). You can make a three-day hike from the Caribbean Sea to the very high altitude Alto del Naranjo but remember that you will not return (and therefore can not leave your heavy stuff), it becomes very hot during the day and you must take a guide.

On the other hand, there are several huts and villages where you can stay overnight. The highlight of the beautiful panoramic views of mountains, forest and the sea is and remains the headquarters of Fidel Castro and its rebels during the Cuban Revolution in the 1950s. At La Platica you have a beautiful view over this beautiful national park and the province of Granma.

Commandancia de La Plata:

It was here that Fidel Castro and his rebels spent some 5 months out of the sight of dictator Batista and from here Castro and his commanders made plans to take over the country and start the Revolution. After Fidel and some of his handmen had landed with their boat Granma on the coast, he needed a safe place from which he could realize his plans, attract new recruits and coordinate the attacks.

In the middle of the jungle, with a high peak to make radio broadcasts shows, and a river to get water in the middle of the mountains and forests, this place was never discovered. Wooden barracks were built (including a warehouse, administration, electricity house, hospital, radio house, checkpoints, a dormitory and Fidel's hut) but most rebels slept in hammocks outside in the open air in the jungle. 

The place has a museum including utensils of that time and mainly by the environment that has turned out to be pure nature it is a unique and very historic place to visit. Unfortunately, a guide is mandatory, but just the 3 km route on a goat path to the headquarters gives you a very realistic picture of how it should be done here (without the constant pressure that it would be discovered and destroyed). 

Other attractions:

• La Platica.

Bayamo - Alto del Naranjo - Bayamo: you can travel with a truck (camion) from Bayamo to Bartholome Maso (15 CP) (you probably have to change a few times but this is still quite easy). In BM there is no public transport anymore. I drove (unfortunately) with a jeep to Alto del Naranjo.

Back I went with a local taxi (5 CP) and then with an open truck to Yara (free) who picked me up and finally with a van back to Bayamo (10 CP).

• Name: Campismo La Sierrita

Address: 8 km south of Bartolome Maso and 20 km north of Santa Domingo

Price: 8 CUC (cabana)

Phone nr. : 5-3326

Content:

This campsite (you can not really camp with a tent here) has about 30 cabins in different grades. There is a reception, 2 restaurants and opportunities for horse riding, playing games and swimming in the river. The cabanas themselves are large, clean and each has its own toilet and shower – but problems with drinkingwater can occur. There are several water taps on the grounds to fill a bucket of water and use it as a shower and to flush the toilet. But sometimes the water works and then you can "shower normally".

The campsite is about a kilometer from the road and is completely secluded in a rural area with small thatched cottages. Certainly a must if you are in Cuba to at least once in such a place to spend the night. The staff is friendly but does not speak a word of English. I had dinner for 5 CUC and breakfast costs 3 CUC. There is also beer and you can get water and soft drinks. There is electricity.

TIP: sometimes it seems (not in my case) very busy and then it is wise to make a reservation at the office in Bayamo (Campismo Popular).

• Name: Commandancia de La Plata.

Address: 3 km from Alto del Naranjo (straight through the jungle).

Price:

- Package 65 CUC

Including:

• Jeep from Bartholome Maso to Alto del Naranjo and back;
• A mandatory guide;
• A lunch package;
• Entrance park.

Time:

Come early in the morning because in the afternoon almost no more tours are given (do not ask me why, maybe because a trip takes 4 hours and it can suddenly get dark quickly).

Content:

If you are interested in history (and certainly in war history) this is a unique place to see and a certain "must-see" on your list. All barracks can still be viewed in their original state but DO ask for an English guide if your Spanish is not good (enough). There is a museum where you can see a well-organized model with all the barracks (the ones that are still there but also the ones that have been rotted away by nature, the time and the weather) and utensils.

TIP:

Do not try to buy a package because I found (and find) 65 CUC really too much for what you get. It is important to know that it is (almost) impossible to drive from the town Santa Domingo (down the mountain) to "Alto del Naranjo" with a normal car, given the steepness of the road. You can walk it, but you have to have firm calves and time for that. Note that in the afternoon no more tours are done and that you then have to walk 3 km through the jungle to get to the headquarters and there also a lot of climbing and walking and back again.

So think very carefully that you will still enjoy your stay (do not forget the heat). Especially if you want to see everything (e.g. the radio hut) on top of the mountain, this is quite some work. The road to the hospital is also a difficult one. The lunch package does not represent a lot (a sandwich and a can of orange), so bringing extra food is a must for new energy. So it’s wise to take a (shared) taxi from BM to Santa Domingo which saves a lot of money and buy food yourself.