Tierradentro

Places of Interest - Colombia

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introduction

The second most important archaeological site in Colombia is Tierradentro. The archeological park consists of five sites where the most important underground tombs were found - the only one of its kind in the Americas. Easy to find through the given map but you have to be a bit in shape because the walk consists of some climbs to reach these underground dungeons.

You have to climb down along large stones in holes in the ground and to clamber down in places where some ligths give away stone reliefs of faces but also to discover painted patterns. All important tombs are "protected" by highly professional shelters and are all guarded. It is a magical and for people who are interested in other cultures and use a must. In addition to the mysterious tombs, the hour-long walk through nature and the panoramas that are part of the country are beautiful.

highlights

Tierradentro archeological park:

Approximately 100 underground tombs have been found in the Tierradentro area. Varying from 2 meters wide and 7 meters long and about 3 meters high, these dungeons are carved out of the volcanic ash. Some graves are dug some 9 meters deep and can be reached via stone steps with very large steps.

The largest are propped with stone pillars and contain stone-carved faces and black red motifs on the walls and ceilings. Figures have also been found. Unfortunately, very little is known about the makers of the tombs. It is estimated that these were built between the 9th and 7th century BC. and that different people with different cultures have worked on it in different times. The large stone figures found in the nearby San Augustin are probably constructed 500 years later.

The five sites of the park are within walking distance and in an approximately 7 hours in a long but beautiful walk to do. If you walk in a counterclockwise direction you will climb after about 20 minutes at the first site Segovia where about 20 tombs can be seen. These are the most admirable and here most of the tombs are illuminated. After another 20 minutes of climbing, El Duende is the second site where 4 tombs can be admired. El Tablon, after a walk of about 45 minutes is the place where the stone figures are collected under a canopy.

You can now have lunch and/or take a look at the church in the village of "San Andres" and then walk to Alto de San Andres, which has been built on the other side of the valley against the hillside. Here too are tombs built and you can take a look at them. Finally, you can decide whether you want to make an almost 3-hour walk to the very high "El Aguacate" where, besides many smaller tombs, you also get a magnificent panaroma view over the entire valley. You can also quite you’re walk (you are now 4 or 5 hours on the road) and take a look at the museums.

Other attractions:

The thatched roof of the church of San Andres.

tips & advice (2013)

From Popayan there are about 4 buses a day to Tierradentro. Three of them stop at the junction so you have to walk about 20 minutes before you arrive at your hostel (see below). The one from 10:30 stops in front of the door though. The road was "under construction" and without this would take a long time because you drive constantly in the mountains.

When I was there it was a big mud pool and sometimes dangerous as the bus slid and there are many deep ravines next to the road (where there are no railings). It took 5 hours and I had to pay 20,000 COL; back to Popayan I had to pay 18,000 Col and I was there in about 4.5 hours.

If you want to go to San Augustin after Tierradentro via the small town La Plata you can also go there so that you do not have to go back to Popayan first. This is not a bus but a jeep.

Name: Archeologico and Etnografico

Address: Next to the park (and near the hostels - see below)

Price: 20,000 COL (including the park for two days) - you get a wristband

Content:

These two museums are built at the entrance of the park and look neatly cared for. Both are small in size but very professionally decorated. The one (ethnographic) gives a picture of the ethnic population of this region, how they lived, worked and how they look lided. The other museum (archaeological) has a wealth of things found in and around the tombs of Tierradentro - many vases and ceramics but also some beautiful stone statues.

Downside I found that the door had to be opened by a bored guard and that he walks with you through the museum - a feeling of not being at ease and going out as soon as possible. In addition, everything is in Spanish.

If you want to try something special, ask around at some local "tiendas" (shops) and the hostels for "Coca wine" - a typical taste that was known to me by the coca tea I had drunk in earlier trips and the coca leaves I had chewed in Peru, but want something new and buy a bottle otherwise; 1 liter costs 14,000.

At the only restaurant in the village San Andres La Portada you can get "homemade" ice cream next to a well-deserved lunch - highly recommended.

Name: Residencias y Restaurante Pisimbala

Address: Tierradentro (about 2 km from San Andres) and near the museums and the park

Price: 12.500 COL

Phone nr. : 311 612 4145

Content:

Located between the museums and the archaeological park lies a gravel road with a number of hostels and a hotel (with swimming pool). There is a yard or place where cars can park, a thatched hut where you can hide when it rains and next to the "house" a large garden. They have five rooms and I think they all have a shower and a toilet. It is clean and the people are friendly and helpful. At home is a small shop and it is also a restaurant.

That is easy but can also work to your disadvantage if in the morning in the hall of the house (there where the 3 tables of the restaurant are) a group comes to eat or drink coffee. At night it is very quiet and the shower should be hot but I did not feel any hot water. There are enough blankets and there was a 1p and a 2p bed in my (corner) room.

A minus point I found the presence of 4 cockroaches and 2 large spiders in my room.

Tierradentro

Places of Interest - Colombia

introduction

highlights

tips & advice (2013)

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