Cartagena has a 13 km walled old town that can be counted among the most beautiful in the world. But the city has more to offer; it officially has a population of one million (unofficially much higher) and has a modern part with a skyline similar to Panama City of Miami where the "wealth" and "famous" live. In between are neighborhoods where you’d better not go as a tourist, where drugs and prostitution are rampant.
For the tourist, the two old city districts are the highlight of their trip in Colombia and is therefore not to be missed. Streets with cobbled stones, churches and beautifully brightly colored colonial buildings with large wooden balconies that rise far above the street. Many are filled with luxuriant bougainvillas and palms that give the whole a romantic atmosphere like in the Middle East.
The importance of the city is underlined by the gigantic impressive Spanish colonial fortress San Felipe de Barajas which towers over the old city on the hill next to it.
The old town:
The historic center actually consists of two parts that are both surrounded by an almost intact citywall. This defense includes next to high thich walls also large guns and watchtowers that check the water and the countryside. Both districts were formerly separated by that today is taken over by land and new city district has been resurrected.
The city center has several city gates, museums, romantic squares, palaces, churches and other important administrative buildings that indicate the importance of the city. All of the above buildings are connected with narrow streets with cobbled stones where large wooden balconies hang above which gives the whole a mystical and romantic atmosphere.
Important squares include Plaza de los Coches where once was the big slave market and now a popular "Cuban" cantina is established that attracts a lot of public. The picturesque Puerta del Reloj (clock gate) is also here and is the main gate between the two old city areas. Parades were organized at Plaza de La Aduana and all important administrative buildings of the Spaniards were to be found here. Other squares like "Plaza de Bolivar" are a wonderful place among the many trees and enjoy an ice cream on a bench and looking at the vendors, dancers and the beautiful colonial buildings around.
Cartagena was founded in 1533 by the Spaniards and immediately became an important city. In 1552 it was hit by a large fire and most houses burned down, after which it was decided to use only non-combustible materials such as stone. Soon after, Cartagena became the most important trading post for the Spaniards in South America and the Caribbean.
It was here that the many exchanged and looted items such as silver and gold were stored from South America until they were shipped to the motherland of Spain. This spoils attracted many pirates and the city was attacked about five times in the 16th century. The most important or notorious of these was the attack by Sir Francis Drake, the English pirate who was bribed in order not to completely destroy the city after he took it.
Because of all these attacks the Spaniards were forced to build forts in and around the city. Despite frantic efforts by the attackers, it was no longer possible to get hold of the city and because of it the city continued to grow. There was even a channel dug through which a connection was made with the Magdalena river which led to even more trade. The city would become the most important city outside Spain of the settlers and would be decisive in the history of the new country Colombia. In 1810 the city decided to declare itself independent because of the European struggles with Napoleon in Spain and was promptly followed the other important cities of Colombia.
After Napoleon was defeated, a four-month siege of the city followed by Spanish troops who wanted to secure their colonies with many thousands of deaths as a result. It was not until 1821 that the city was occupied from the sea by the rebels of Bolivar. Even now the city grew in importance and attracted many immigrants from all over the world whose descendants now run many shops, restaurants and hotels in and around the city, which today attracts many tourists.
Cartagena - Santa Marta: the bus station of Cartagena is very awkwardly located about 7 km outside the city center (on the outskirts of the city) so you first have to take a local bus (microbus). You can board at the bridge at the large Spanish colonial fort but ask several times (at several people) if he goes to the terminal. The journey takes about 45 minutes and costs 1700 COL.
When I arrived at the junction of the terminal, I was immediately asked if I wanted to go to Santa Marta - the bus was kinda waiting at the corner. I had an AIRCO minibus that took me to Barranquila for 20,000 COL (after bargaining). Unfortunately we had to change to another bus that only left an hour later. Normally the ride is about 4 hours. My ride was an hour longer due to this delay.
Also in Santa Marta we didn’t arrive at the terminal but somewhere along the road where no city buses (according to locals) went to the center. We chartered a taxi for 7000 COL. This will take you there in 15 minutes.
Address: Av. Arevalo (just outside the second city wall on the hill)
Price: 17,000 (without headphones)
Time: 08:00 - 18:00
Content:
The largest and strongest Spanish colonial fort ever built in all their colonies! Already in 1631 there were made preparations for making a fort but this was very small and did not mean much. The real work began in 1657 on top of the strategic hill of the city of Cartagena and some 130 years later the fort was extended over the entire hill and became (as it appears) impregnable despite several attempts. The strategic points of the fort were connected by a tunnel complex to evacuate people and bring goods in case of emergency.
They were built in such a way that if the enemy gave a flick in one of the tunnels they gave theirselves away; this also greatly improved Mutual communication. The fort can be seen from afar and is overwhelming. Some tunnels are lit and you can walk a bit in order to get a picture of how it was at that time. In itself, not a stunning experience, but given the history of the city, this is actually a must - even if it is not worth the high entrance fee.
Restaurant El Puente in the busy budget street Andres is recommended - here you can enjoy a delicious casserole or something similar as a chicken for less than 8,500 including soup and a glass of cola. At Donde Fidel at the Plaza de los Coches you can enjoy delicious music and the long-running crowd which consists of a mix of whores, rich people and backpackers and local Colombians.
You enter a Cuban cantina. Do you really want to get away from all the red tape then take a beer on the terrace of cafe "La rchidea" in the new district "La Matuna" under the trees and order a delicious refreshing "Alguila light" beer.
Address: Calle El Guerrero 29-66 (Getsomani district)
Price: 22,000 (single)
Phone nr. : 6642464
Content:
This hotel or hostel is centrally located in the budgethostel district Getsomani in the busy street but in the quiet part. It has a patio but is actually a bit boring. Also in the lobby are no chairs or tables and it seems as if the owners are OK with that. No extra attention is paid to customers and that makes it so quiet (I assume).
The hostel definitely has the potential because it is clean and the staff friendly. Upstairs it is quiet and there are two large showers for the rooms without. I had a small room with a 1p bed and a fan. There are sometimes large cockroaches around.
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