La Paz and Sorata

Places of Interest - Bolivia


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introduction


La Paz is known for being the highest capital in the world which it kinda strange because the city is not the official of the country at all. The city where the Bolivian government resides is “only” the administrative capital of the country as well as the largest and most important one. It is the commercial, industrial and cultural heart of Bolivia. La Paz lies in a gorge, below a plain, at an altitude of 3600 meters along the river La Paz and the houses and buildings on the steep slopes seem to be falling down - one of the many symbols of this magical city.

 

On top of the plain lies the city of El Alto with is a very mixed one with a rapidly growing population and also the international airport of La Paz is situated here. The city has a multitude of sights  including numerous interesting museums churches and squares. Also a visit to the ruins of Tiwanaku is possible. Sorata is a small village which is a few hours away and where you can enjoy the outdoors and mountains.


highlights


The inner city:

The city of La Paz has no definite sights that you should see; maybe the San Fransisco church and perhaps the witch market where you meet lama fetuses and stuffed frogs and snakes are. The view over the city is one of great beauty - from El Alto you have a panorama over the high mountains (some over 6000 meters) and the beautifully colored houses that seem to be smashed against the slopes of the city.

 

Of course it has interesting museums, markets, streets and squares - la Paz is a city where you should first acclimatize (if you come from lower places) and then have to explore quietly and in an easy way. 


Sorata:

It is an hour's drive towards Sorata from the chaotic non-official capital La Paz but is a world of difference. Often noticed as the most relaxed spot in the country and maybe it is.

 

Enough hostels, restaurants and cafes where most attention goes to the sweet, small square of the village where the minibus also arrives and departs from. There is not much to do than people watching and enjoy the sun on the terrace in town.

 

The big attraction here is the possibilities of hiking or mountain biking in the surrounding landscape. There is a large alpine lake within a few hours of hiking from Sorata but also a cave and many valleys. Take enough money because an ATM is not present in town. 

 

  • Tiwanaku ruins: see museums. 

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history


The city of La Paz was founded in 1548 by Alonso de Mendoza on the site of the indigenous settlement Chuquiago and was originally called Nuestra Señora de la Paz (Our Lady of Peace). The settlement was moved a bit in the "protected" valley away from the open cold plain where the wind had and has free play.

 

Founded because of the presence of gold in the ground and grew rapidly because it was "safe". There was also a reasonably good and mild climate and lay on the important route between the very important silver mine of Potosi and Lima in Peru. La Paz became the de facto seat of the national government in 1898.

 

This change was due to the transition of the Bolivian economy depending on the largely depleted silver mines from Potosí to the exploitation of tin near Oruro, and due to the resulting changes in the distribution of the economic and political influence of the various national elites. The population of La Paz is mainly mestizos - a mix of descendants of the male Spanish settlers and female native people. Especially at the "Alto" height of the city, the population is growing steadily due to immigration from the countryside to the big city for work and a better life.


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tips & advice (2011)


The big bus station is centrally located closeby the center.

 

La Paz - Sorata: there are plenty of vans and micro's going to Sorata (price 17 Bol) leaving from the corner "Kollasuyo" and "Bustillos" (near the cemetery) in La Paz. At least at 10:00 a minibus is leaving - you arrive at about 13:30 in Sorata.

 

La Paz - Rurrenabaque: at 15:00 from Avenue America there is a bus leaving from La Paz. This ride on the perhaps most dangerous route in the world takes around 18 hours (but can easily reach also 20 to 25 hours). We have paid 120 Bol for a one-way ticket.

 

La Paz - Coroico (Choro trek): From Villa Fatima there are regular micro's (vans) towards Coroico - the price is 20 Bol. It is waiting until the van is full and then it is important to leave from El Cumbre as the "trek" begins there. That is about 45 minutes drive.

 

La Paz - Santa Cruz: At society El Dorado (this goes directly) there is a bus at 17:00 towards Santa Cruz - costs are 130 Bol for a bed-chair (cama). You arrive in the morning around 11:00 (with a bit of luck).


  • Name: Tiwanaku (near Tiwanaku village)

Price: 80 Bol pp

 

Content:

On the spot where the Tiwanaku ruins can be seen now, lived once a group of people, about 1000 years ago where very little is known about. Most of the site has not yet been investigated, but it is clear that one of the greatest archaeological discoveries of pre-Inca times has been exposed here. Large sandstone blocks, plateaus, the famous sun gate ("Puerta del Sol"), monoliths, the Akapana pyramid and many questions - it has become clear that at least 20,000 people have lived here.

 

TOUR:

You can arrange a trip to the Tiwanaku ruins with various travel organizations and agencies. Most pick you up in the morning around 8 o'clock, where you'll be dropped off at your hotel at around 3 o'clock in the afternoon. Costs (excluding tip, entrance museum and ruins) is about 60 Bol p.p. Most tours let you go free in the museum Museo Litico Monumental and then walk through the ruins with a guide. Finally you are taken to the site of Puma Punku and you have lunch in a restaurant.


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In the street where our hostel was situated in La Paz (Llampu street) you can find countless eateries - we have found a Thai restaurant on the first floor (looks very luxurious but it is not) where they served fantastic food for a reasonable price.

 

Café Llampu (in Sorata) is an outdoor cafe - there are a number of chairs and tables on a lawn outside and you can enjoy the freedom and the beautiful view. Enjoying a glass of beer in the sun with your book or with a game of chess.


  • Name: Hotel Copacobana (la Paz)

Address: Illampu street 70B

Price: 70 Bol (single) including breakfast

 

Content:

In the Illampu street, right in the center (near the market) is this very attractive hotel situated with a very competitive price. It is slightly more expensive than the cheapest backpackers hostels that keeps the real soul-cutters out. There are fine, luxurious (quite) rooms with private toilets and showers. It is clean and quiet and there is even WIFI on the lower floors. Breakfast is included and if you also want breakfast on arrival that costs 7 pesos extra. There is friendly and helpful staff (their English is not perfect) and you get a towel, a bar of soap upon arrival. Downstairs in the hall are some PCs with internet.

 

  • Name: Hostel Piedras (Sorata)

Address: Ascarrunz

Price: 40 Spheres (single) or 80 for a double room

Phone nr. : 7191 6341

 

Content:

As if you are coming home - a very large homely hostel where it shines becuase it’s spotless clean. It is kept this way due to the German owners and the rooms all have their own name of a local stone. Good mattresses, wooden furniture and a large and delicious breakfast (23 Bol pp). The showers are hotand accessible through the garden; in the toilet you have to watch out that you do not hit your head but there is not much wrong in this beautiful and atmospheric hostel. Some rooms seem to have a fantastic view as well.


One of the special things you can do when you are in La Paz is to go to a football match. We did not have to make a reservation (it was not even half full while a derby was programmed) - the game started at 15:30 and cost us 30 pesos per person.


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